
A LITTLE 
SEWING BGDK 

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LITTLE GIRL 



LOUISE FRANCES CORNELL 




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A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 
FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



The Ideal 
Series for Girls 

A Little Cook Book for a Little Girl 

By Caroline French Benton 
Cloth decorative, small i2mo. 

75 cents ; carriage paid, 85 cents 
The simple, vivacious style makes this 
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story-book. 

A Little Housekeeping Book for a Little 
Girl; or Margaret's Saturday Mornings 
By Caroline French Benton 
Cloth decorative, small i2mo. 

75 cents; carriage paid, 85 cents 
A little girl, home from school on Sat- 
urday mornings, finds out how to make Jj[ 
helpful use of her spare time. 
A Little Candy Book for a Little Girl 

By Amy L. Waterman 
Cloth decorative, with a frontispiece in full 
color, small i2mo. 

75 cents ; carriage paid, 85 cents 
This is a book of special appeal, as it ex- 
plains in simple fashion the processes of 
making delicious fudges, fondants, nut 
dainties and the like. 
A Little Sewing Book for a Little Girl 

By Louise Frances Cornell 
Cloth decorative, with a frontispiece in full 
color, small i2mo. 

75 cents ; carriage paid, 85 cents 
A splendid volume to encourage little 
girls in the study of the useful and beauti- 
ful art of the needle. 



THE PAGE COMPANY 

53 Beacon St., Boston, Mass. 



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LITTLE SEWING 
BOOK FOR A 
LITTLE GIRL 



BY 
LOUISE FRANCES CORNELL 



ILLUSTRATED 




BOSTON ? THE PAGE 

COMPANY * MDCCCCXVIII 



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Copyright, 1918 
By The Page Company 

All rights reserved 



First Impression, July, 1918 



THE COLONIAL PRESS 
C. H. SIMONDS CO., BOSTON, U. S. A. 

SEP 19 iUU 

-..*'■■ • l ' 



INTRODUCTION 



Too often we hear grown-up girls and women 
say that they do not like to sew or that they 
don't know the first thing about sewing. What 
they really mean is that they do not like to 
sew because they don't know the first thing 
about it. We always like the things we know 
how to do and do well. 

The neglected art of the needle is coming 
again into its own and the time to inculcate its 
principles is in childhood, when the mind is 
plastic and the fingers flexible. Any little girl 
may develop into a finished needlewoman if she 
undertakes the study of sewing with a compe- 
tent teacher who can combine practical instruc- 
tion with the play spirit, and make the lesson 
as interesting as a game. 

To inspire little girls with the desire to learn 
sewing, and to help their elders teach them, this 
story of Annalu was written. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 

I. 


w 

General Directions 


PAGE 
1 


II. 


Stitches 


17 


III. 


Needle Book 


36 


IV. 


Hemming 


43 


V. 


The First Apron 


52 


VI. 


The Doll's Petticoat . 


57 


VII. 


The Buttonhole 


67 


VIII. 


Talk on Textiles 


80 


IX. 


Bias Strips , 


. 85 


X. 


The Clothes-pin Bag . 


90 


XI. 


The Ladies' Aid Fair . 


96 


XII. 


The Card Table Cover 


107 


XIII. 


Doll's Panties 


115 


XIV. 


The Doll's Chemise 


124 


XV. 


The Kimono Dress 


136 


XVI. 


The Sewing Apron 


151 


XVII. 


The Straight Camisole 


161 


XVHI. 


Collar and Cuff Set . 


173 


XIX. 


Patching and Darning 


180 


XX. 


Annalu's Ambition 


191 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 
FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



CHAPTER I 
GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

As long as Annalu Carter oould remember, 
her mother and she had lived alone. Mother 
was always busy making pretty dresses for 
other people to wear. Annalu loved to sit close 
by and watch mother's busy fingers push the 
needle in and out the fine silks and delicate laces, 
or listen to the hum of the flying wheel of the 
machine, as Mrs. Carter guided the material 
under the needle. Annalu's lap often answered 
as a basket for the sewing to fall into, as it 
traveled away from the machine. Her fingers 
were not always idle either. She had learned 
what pieces to cut apart, and how to flatten out 
the seams, and turn sleeves to the right side. 
She was mother's treasure in taking out basting 



2 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

threads, or ripping seams of garments that had 
to be changed, or made over. 

Several times Annalu had caused unnecessary 
trouble by trying to run the machine, when 
mother had left some work under the presser 
foot. Perhaps many a little girl would have 
been scolded for this, but she was not. Her 
mother remembered when she herself was small 
and wanted to sew on the machine, she was told 
that as soon as she learned to do sewing nicely 
by hand she could use the machine. And to 
this day she is glad her mother made this condi- 
tion. Otherwise she never would love to do hand 
sewing. But there is one thing all little girls 
like to do, and that is to wind empty bobbins. 
Annalu was promised, if she would not disturb 
mother's sewing, that she could do this for 
Mrs. Carter. 

At first Annalu was so small she could only 
sit in her mother's lap and watch how the bobbin 
was inserted, and the wheel started, but as soon 
as she was tall enough for her toes to reach the 
treadle, she would take her mother's place and 
away the wheel would fly until the bobbin was 
filled. 

This winding the bobbin was great fun. Her 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 3 

imagination ran as fast as the wheel, and some- 
times she pretended she was finishing one of 
her mother's long seams, or was making a party 
dress for herself or her dolly. She would be so 
absorbed in her thoughts that she would forget 
to watch her bobbin. Then she would be 
brought to herself by hearing her mother ex- 
claim that the bobbin was full and running over ! 

As the little girl grew older she helped her 
mother about the house in a great many ways, 
washing the dishes and putting everything in 
order as a surprise for Mrs. Carter when she 
returned from taking a dress to a customer. 

One day mother seemed to be gone a long time 
and Annalu was watching anxiously, as mother 
had promised her a surprise when she returned. 
Finally Mrs. Carter appeared, and Annalu 
rushed to greet her, filled with suppressed ex- 
citement to know what was in the neatly tied 
packages her mother carried. Eagerly open- 
ing the first one she was overjoyed to find the 
dearest little work box, filled with all the neces- 
sary tools for sewing, a silver thimble, a straw- 
berry emery, a turtle with a run-in-and-hide 
tape measure, a pair of very sharp round- 
pointed scissors, a Japanese pin cushion, in the 



4 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

shape of an apple, a paper of needles, sizes from 

5 to 10. 

In the other package were many colored 
skeins of mercerized floss, and a piece of canvas. 

Mother said that, with some pins, cotton, and 
a few other things, selected from her supply, 
and with practice and careful attention, Annalu 
would soon become a deft little needlewoman, 
and that she would begin to learn to do the 
things she had seen her mother do so often. 

After spending a great deal of time in admir- 
ing and observing every little detail of the box, 
the new possessions were laid carefully away in 
one corner of the drawer, where all her treas- 
ured belongings were kept, for the old adage, 
" A place for everything and everything in its 
place," had been well drilled into this happy 
little girl's life. From this time on some part of 
every day was spent with her mother in learning 
to sew. 

Before they really began to sew there were 
a great many things to talk about in regard to 
the comfort of the body and the proper use of 
the tools. Mother said there were three rules 
to follow in sewing; first, decide what you want 
to do, next, how you will do it, and third, do it. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 5 

But she had been busy all these years just 
getting the work finished. Her ways of doing 
things had become habits, and now she never 
had to think just how she did them. But there 
is a right way, and in their sewing hours to- 
gether they would consider the easiest way of 
obtaining the best results, said Mrs. Carter, 
for this means efficiency, and efficiency is always 
the right way. 

Nature intended every little girl to be strong 
and healthy, and nothing should be done to pre- 
vent the body from growing straight and beau- 
tiful. So it will be seen Annalu's mother had 
this in mind, for several chairs were tried be- 
fore she found one that was not so low as to 
push the knees up, and not so high as to let the 
feet swing, but just so they rested comfortably 
on the floor. So that her shoulders would not 
droop, and her lungs could take long deep 
breaths, she must rest her spine against the back 
of the chair and hold her head up. 

Making a habit of this position, her mother 
knew, would prevent the young seamstress's 
back from aching, and her body from becoming 
easily tired. It would never do for any young 
lady to bend her head over her work, for this 



6 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

would tire the back and strain the eyes. Strain- 
ing the eyes causes squinting and near sighted- 
ness, which are neither comfortable nor beauti- 
ful. 

Annalu's grandma was a very old lady and 
her eyes were just as strong as when she was 
young. She said there were a few things to re- 
member in using the eyes that would make every 
one's eyes last as long as hers did. Be careful 
always not to hold the work too far away from 
the eyes, and be very particular about the light. 
Do not face it. Always sit so that it falls over 
the left shoulder, and never have the sunlight 
fall on the work. Have the direct light, as light 
coming through draperies of the finest material 
casts little shadows, and keeps the eyes on a 
strain. Never sew in the fading light; this is 
very harmful to the eyes. It is always a temp- 
tation, as the light fades, to take a last few 
stitches, but when this is done it will be noticed 
that the eyes burn, which shows eye-strain. 

In these talks the wise mother did not for- 
get about the arms and hands, without which 
not very much sewing could be done. Although 
she did once know of a man, who had lost his 
arms, and who taught himself to use his toes 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 7 

for everything that his hands would ordinarily 
do for him, and sewing on buttons was one of 
the things he could do very nicely. 

Little girls' elbows are always pushing out in 
awkward angles, but in sewing they should be 
held close to the body, and in passing the needle 
in and out of the material let the hinge at the 
wrist do the work of throwing the thread out, 
instead of swinging the entire arm from the 
shoulder. Using the wrist this way saves extra 
movement and the arm does not become so 
quickly tired. 

The hands, the willing little servants of the 
mind, should always be spotlessly clean, before 
starting to sew, as unclean hands soil the work. 

Annalu thought there were a number of 
things to remember, even before she started 
to sew, but as mother was always right in what 
she said, the little girl determined to pay atten- 
tion to these important points until they were 
so fixed in her mind, that they became habits. 

After learning about the comfort of the body, 
this little girl, who was to be a model seamstress, 
found that getting acquainted with her new 
possessions was the next step. As her mother 
wanted to be sure nothing was neglected, she 



8 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

started right from the beginning and showed 
Annalu how all the tools should be used. 

A very pretty picture this sunny little girl 
made, seated by the window, in her own sewing 
chair, with her sewing things laid out on a 
table. This table, too, was to be Annalu's own. 
Mother had the carpenter next door saw the 
legs so that the table was just high enough for 
Annalu's arms to rest on the top. 

This mother thought there never mas such a 
busy child as Annalu eagerly followed directions 
in these first steps. Of course she did not learn 
everything at once, but it is better to tell all 
about what she did learn, so that if any little 
girl has not a mother who knows, or has a 
mother who has not the time to show her, she 
can see for herself how easy it is to do everything 
in the right way. So this is how Annalu learned 
to thread her needle and use her thimble and 
scissors. 

Take a needle with a large eye and a blunt 
point. At first, hold it in the right hand, be- 
tween the thumb and the first two fingers; let 
the eye show above the fingers about an eighth 
of an inch. Cut a piece of floss the length of 
the arm, take in the left hand, between the 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 9 

thumb and first finger, a quarter of an inch 
from the end, hold it against the palm with the 
rest of the fingers, press the floss through the 
eye of the needle to the other side, pass the 
needle to the thumb and forefinger of the left 
hand and pull the end of the floss through the 




THREADING THE NEEDLE 



eye. Try this several times. Then take a finer 
thread and a needle with a small eye, and thread 
in the same way. 

One thing to remember in filling a needle with 
thread ; never break it from the spool but always 
cut it, and thread the needle with the end oppo- 
site the one cut from the spool. Being careful 
about this prevents knots and tangles. Some 
people thread the needle before they cut the 
thread from the spool. 

Never wet the end of the thread to make it go 
through the eye of the needle. This soils the 



10 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

thread and it is an unclean thing to do. If 
the thread is hard to push through, twist it be- 
tween the thumb and first finger several times, 
this will give it a point to press through the 
eye. Never, never bite the thread; this is very 
bad for the teeth, as it is likely to crack the 
enamel. 

Measure thread from shoulder to shoul- 
der. If too long a thread is taken, it will wear 
thin and break. 

Do not use too coarse a thread for the needle, 
as the needle will not make a hole large enough 
for the thread to pass through. This causes 
the thread to stick and pull the work, which 
wastes time. 

In threading the needle with wool, or any 
coarse soft strands, fold back the end of the 
strand and push it through the eye. This pre- 
vents the strands from separating, and lets 
the thread go through smoothly. 

Quite as important as the thread and needle 
is the use of the thimble. Learn to sew with 
the thimble right from the beginning, and thus 
keep the end of the needle from pricking the 
finger. 

The thimble should be worn on the second 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 11 

finger of the right hand, and it should fit the 
finger snugly. If it is too large it will slip off 
easily. To use the thimble properly, hold the 
needle in the right hand between the thumb and 
first finger, the eye pointing toward the palm 
of the hand, and a small part showing from be- 
tween the fingers. The third finger is raised 
and the end of the thimble pressed against the 
end of the needle. 

See how necessary the thimble 
is. Hold the needle in the 
proper position, and in the left 
hand take a piece of white 
paper, raise the finger of the 
right hand and force the needle USE OF thimble 

° m AND NEEDLE 

through the paper, with the end 
of the finger. Now put on the thimble and do 
the same thing and see how much more easily the 
needle passes through the paper. 

Never sew with a bent or rusty needle. If a 
needle is bent there is not very much that can 
be done with it, but if it is rusty or has become 
moist and sticky, pass it in and out of the 
little strawberry emery, and soon it will be 
smooth and shiny as if it were new. 

As with the needle and thimble, there are im- 




12 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

portant things to know about the use of the 
scissors. In sewing several kinds of scissors 
are needed — a large pair for cutting, a smaller 
pair with sharp points for ripping and snipping 
threads, and a buttonhole scissors with which 
any size hole may be cut for the button. 

When the scissors are large they are usually 
spoken of as shears; nearly all shears have a 
sharp and a blunt point. To use them properly 
put the thumb of the right hand through the 
hole that will bring the blunt point on top, and 
the second and third fingers through the other 
hole, with the sharp point against the table. 
Let the first finger fall in the under curve to 
guide the scissors. Holding the scissors thus, 
draw the thumb towards the body and press the 
fingers out; this opens the scissors. Draw the 
fingers and thumb towards the palm of the hand 
— thus the scissors are closed. These two move- 
ments are used in cutting, and with a little prac- 
tice in opening and closing them, and pushing 
them backward and forward across the table, 
the hand and fingers will be ready to cut. 

Try first with paper, and in one movement 
cut from where the scissors join out to the very 
points. Learning to make long cuts like this 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 13 

prevents little jagged edges that are formed 
by taking short snips. Next try to cut on a 
straight line by folding paper and cutting on 
the creased line. Then draw a line with pencil 
and see how closely the line can be followed. 
Try making a straight cut without any guide 
to follow. Much practice in paper cutting is 
advisable, before trying to cut cotton or other 
material. 

Annalu learned to guide her scissors by draw- 
ing stars and circles on paper, and cutting them 
out, and she also followed the outlines of the 
patterns in the fashion books. Then from the 
scrap bag she found pieces of material, and 
practised cutting on creased lines and straight 
edges. 

Along with learning about her equipment 
Annalu learned how to make a knot. Some one 
has said a knot in the end of the thread saves 
the first stitch. Now knots can be great clumsy 
things or they can be very small and just 
serviceable enough to save the first stitch. 
Annalu's was like this, and here is her mother's 
rule for making it : 

Hold the thread in the right hand, and with 
the left hand take the end of the thread between 



14 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

the thumb and first finger and twist the thread 
once and a half around the first finger of the 
left hand; with the first finger roll on the ball 
of the thumb, pressing the end of the thread 
through the ring thus formed. Slip from the 
finger and almost at the same time catch between 
the thumb and first finger and with the nail of 
the middle finger close up the ring, by drawing 
toward the end of the thread. 




TYING A KNOT 



This did not seem so easy at first for Annalu, 
as there is a little trick in catching the thread 
between the thumb and first finger when slipping 
it from the finger, but by trying it over and over 
again at last her little fingers succeeded in 
turning out a nice hard knot that she could pull 
between her nails without having it come out. 
If she happened to leave a little thread on the 
end, she snipped it off with her scissors. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 15 

This little girl applied the knowledge she had 
learned so far by helping her mother. She 
could now thread a needle and make a knot and 
she often saved her mother's time when basting 
or hemming, by refilling her needles and making 
the knots. Of course she wanted to really truly 
cut also, when she saw her mother making great 
wide slashes in some cloth, but this she could 
not always do, only in some places where there 
was a fold to be cut apart, or an easy chalk 
mark to follow. 

However, by going slowly and carefully, in 
a short while she could use the scissors nicely. 

An hour passes very quickly when the hands 
are busy trying new things of interest, and 
Annalu often thought she had just started when 
mother would say that luncheon was ready, or 
it was time for a walk. Of course that meant 
that everything was to be put back in order and 
not a scrap was to be seen on the floor. 

It was one of Mrs. Carter's rules not to up- 
set the order of their cheerful sewing room by 
carelessly dropping clippings and threads. So 
into the scrap basket all these ends found their 
way, and later, when the little girl knew more 
about sewing, this same basket often held 



16 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

treasures in the way of small pieces and 
brightly colored silks with which to fashion 
something new for dolly. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 17 



CHAPTER II 
STITCHES 

Knowing about the needle, thimble and scis- 
sors, Annalu began to sew with the easy stitches 
first. 

The pretty floss of different colors was untied 
and cut in short lengths. To prevent them from 
tangling each color was braided in a skein, and 
as needed, one strand at a time could be drawn 
out. 

Then the canvas was cut into oblong pieces. 
In cutting the canvas care was taken to follow 
the straight of the material so the threads would 
be even from side to side and top to bottom. 
These pieces were prepared with a special pur- 
pose in mind. As there were so many stitches 
to remember, Annalu's mother had her keep a 
sample of each kind she learned to make. Later 
on these samples were mounted on paper and 
bound together in a portfolio. 



18 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

This portfolio consisted of an outside cover 
and a number of leaves cut from stiff brown 
paper. Rings passed through holes punched 
in the top and bottom of the left hand side of 
the book held the cover and leaves together. 
One by one the finished samples were placed on 
the pages with brass fasteners. In olden times 
little girls, in learning to sew, made what they 
called a Sampler, on which were all the fancy 
stitches. This was loaned by one friend to an- 
other as a guide for perfect sewing, and to this 
day in the museums will be found some of these 
Samplers showing the handiwork of distin- 
guished people. 

As this Sampler was used in former times, a 
portfolio such as Annalu made could be used in 
these days, as a model for all the stitches and 
ways of applying them. 

Because of Annalu's enthusiasm to see her first 
page in the portfolio, she could hardly guide her 
needle in and out of the canvas, but she soon 
found that the rule, " more haste less speed," 
applied well to her efforts. So she settled down 
to thoughtful work and was repaid by finishing 
a very attractive sample, and any little girl 
can be as interested in making one for herself, 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 19 

as Annalu was, by going about it in the follow- 
ing way: 

Take canvas or any material with a coarse 
weave, and cut on the straight thread seven 
inches wide and four inches deep. Fill a needle 
with a large eye with a piece of colored floss 
and make a knot in the end. 

Starting from the upper right hand corner, 
count down five threads and in the same number, 
push the needle through and draw the knot 
down close to the material. Remember, in bast- 
ing, the knot is always on the right side of the 
material. Count two threads toward the left, 
and on a line with the knot pass the needle under 
and up on the right side again, count two 
threads across and pass the needle down again, 
and draw the floss through to its full length, 
but not too tight, 

Repeat this stitch across the canvas till within 
six threads of the end. Fasten the end of the 
floss by taking a second stitch in the last stitch 
made, and slide under on the wrong side of the 
stitches. This is called the even basting stitch. 

Count two rows down and make another row 
of stitches just under the first row. This makes 
two rows of even basting stitches. 



20 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



In even basting the stitches are alike on both 
sides, and it is used to hold seams, tucks or folds 
together until they are more firmly sewed. 

Next on the canvas came two rows of uneven 
basting stitches. Fill the needle with floss of 









1 




— - 






-Uh 










dfe ^C 










jffiLjf 










%W 





UNEVEN BASTING 



another color, make a knot in the end, count 
down five threads from the last row and directly 
under the knot push the needle through to the 
wrong side, pass under one strand and come up 
on the right side, count three threads across, 
push the needle through to the wrong side. 

Repeat this across the canvas as in the other 
rows and fasten the end. Count two threads 
down and make a second row of uneven basting. 

In uneven basting there is a long stitch on 
the right side and a short stitch on the under 
side. This stitch is mostly used for marking 
seams and basting in hems. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



21 



After making the basting stitch, two rows of 
the running stitch were made. For the running 
stitch take floss of another color and count down 



















































































/SJL' 














-=»— . 



















































































































EVEN BASTING 



five threads. Directly under the knot of the 
last row of stitches draw the needle up from 
underneath, leaving the knot on the wrong side. 

























































































































cs 


























































i 


( I 


































/' 





















RUNNING STITCH 



Pass over one thread and down under one, and 
up, forming small even stitches ; continue across 
the canvas, fasten the end as before. Make the 
second row. These small even stitches are run- 



22 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

ning stitches and are used in joining pieces of 
material, making tucks, gathering, sewing on 
braid and trimming. 

The piece of canvas has now six rows of 
stitches, and as the raw edges look rather un- 
finished, and might fray, overcast all four sides, 
using another colored floss. Overcasting is not 
so hard as it seems by the number of words used 
in describing it. 

To overcast start from the upper right hand 
corner, count down two threads, holding the 
canvas in the left hand with the edge of the 
material pressed between the thumb and first 
finger, bring the needle through from the under 
side, pointing the needle toward the left shoul- 
der, draw the floss through almost to the end. 
With the first finger hold the end of the floss 
close to the canvas and take the first few 
stitches over it. This fastens the end. Count 
three threads toward the left, carry the needle 
over the top and under, bring to the upper side 
again, always pointing needle toward the left 
shoulder. Count three threads again, carry 
thread over edge and continue as before, all 
around the four edges. 

At the end of the first edge take the last 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 23 

stitch, turn the canvas in the hand, count two 
strands, carry needle over and take the first 
stitch in the same place the last one was taken. 
This turns the corner nicely. Overcast all four 
sides and fasten the end of floss by running 
the needle along under two or three stitches on 
the wrong side. Overcasting stitch is used to 
keep raw edges from raveling. 

For the stitches Annalu used yellow, blue, and 
red floss, and the overcasting was done in pink. 
She was so delighted with her work that a num- 
ber of times it was taken up and admired and 
laid down again before it was nicely pressed out 
with a warm iron, and mounted on the stiff 
paper. 

Annalu enjoyed making her first sample so 
much that right away she started another. She 
did not use the same stitches but learned three 
new ones, and how to do the blanket stitch. 
These stitches are not so easy as the first ones, 
therefore very close attention will be needed 
to make this second sample look as well as 
Annalu made hers. 

The stitching stitch was the first one made. 
Take a new piece of canvas seven inches wide, 
and four inches deep, and fill the needle with 



24 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

the floss of another color, count down eight 
threads and in the same number, then count two 
more threads in toward the left. 

Turn the canvas on the wrong side and slide 
the needle toward the right under these two 
threads, draw the floss almost to the end, pass 
the needle up to the right side, coming up eight 
threads down and eight in. Take one short 
stitch toward the right, by passing over one 
thread and down to the wrong side. Now count 
two threads toward the left, and pass the needle 
up to the right side. Pass the needle over one 
thread to the right, putting the needle down to 
the wrong side directly at the end of the last 
stitch taken. Count two threads to the left and 
bring the needle up on top again ; count one 
stitch to the right and go down, and so on across 
the canvas. 

The first two or three stitches are taken over 
the end of the floss, which fastens it without mak- 
ing a knot. In making the stitching stitch re- 
member to pass over one thread backward and 
two forward each time. 

Make the second row of stitches with the 
same colored floss. 

The stitching stitch is one short stitch on 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



25 



top, each stitch meeting the last one made, and 
on the wrong side, stitches twice as long over- 
lapping each other. When nicely made the 
wrong side looks like a cord, while the right 



*\ - ^ -'gfi <syj > <sp<sp'gy> 





















































~i 























































































Right Side Wrong Side 

STITCHING STITCH 

shows a number of small stitches each meeting 
the other. 

The stitching stitch is much stronger than 
the running stitch and is used for seaming, 
bands, and tapes, and is sometimes used for 
decoration. 

After making two rows of the stitching stitch, 
count down four threads and make two rows of 
back stitching. Back stitching is made the 
same way as the stitching stitch, only on the 
right side the stitches do not meet each other — 
there is a space between. 

Take another colored floss in the needle, 
count down four threads from the last row of 
stitches made, and in four threads, and then 



26 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

count in again three more threads, and turn the 
canvas to the wrong side and slide the needle 
under these last three threads counted. Come 
up to the right side four threads in, and four 
threads from the last row of stitches; now pass 




BACK STITCH 



over one thread towards the right, go down to 
the wrong side, now count three threads to the 
left, and come up to the right side again, and 
pass the needle over one thread toward the left. 
Then go down to the wrong side again. 

This leaves a space between the first stitch 
taken and the next one on the right side, and 
this is the difference between the stitching stitch 
and the back stitch. In the first one on the right 
side 'the small stitches meet each other, and in 
the back stitch there is a space of a stitch be- 
tween the small stitches. 

The back stitch does not make as strong a 
stitch as the stitching stitch, so it is only used 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 27 

in seaming, where such a strong seam is not 
required. 

The last stitch on the sample was the com- 
bination stitch, and it is not so hard to make 
after doing the running stitch, and the back 
stitch, as it is really these two stitches together, 
and that is why it is called the combination 
stitch. 

Another colored floss is used for this last 
stitch. On the wrong side count down four 
threads, and in four, fasten the end of the 
thread by running the needle under two threads 
and coming up to the right side. Pass the 
needle over one thread to the left as in the run- 
ning stitch and go down to the wrong side. 

Pass over one thread and come up, take an- 
other stitch like the first one, thus making two 
running stitches together. Come up to the 
right side, pass the needle back to where the 
last running stitch is made and down to the 
wrong side of the canvas. Pass over the last 
stitch on the wrong side and up in the same hole 
the last stitch was taken. Then start again 
by passing needle over one thread to the left 
and go down to the wrong side, and pass over 
one thread and come up, and so on across the 



28 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



canvas. If this is done properly there will be, 
on the right side, three stitches meeting, and 
a space; on the wrong side a single stitch, a 
space, a single stitch, a space, a single stitch, 
and so on. 













































































N 


















>^> 












i 























































































COMBINATION STITCH 



This combination stitch is used mostly when 
French seams, which Annalu learned about later, 
are put in by hand. 

To finish the sample another row of the 
combination stitch should be made. 

The raw edges of the canvas were not over- 
cast this time, but a new stitch used, which 
is a little more complicated but very good to 
know how to make, and this is called the blanket 
stitch. 

All the other stitches were started from the 
right and worked towards the left. The blanket 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 29 

stitch is usually started from the left and 
worked towards the right. 

Fill the needle with another colored floss and, 
starting from the lower left hand corner of the 
canvas, count three threads up, and in five 
threads ; take three running stitches, on the 
wrong side of the canvas, toward the left. This 
is to fasten the end. Bring the needle to the right 
side near the corner, count up two threads and 
towards the right two threads ; pass the needle 
down to the wrong side and point it toward the 
edge, and draw it out, keeping the floss under- 
neath the needle ; this forms a loop. 

To the right count two threads, and on a 
line with the last stitch push the needle through 
and point towards the lower edge of canvas, 
form another loop by keeping the floss under- 
neath the needle, continue all around the four 
sides of the canvas, turning the corners as in 
overcasting but be sure to catch the floss each 
time under the needle to form the loop. 

If a new piece of floss is needed to finish, 
fasten the end by making a running stitch back 
to the last stitch. With the new piece of floss 
make one or two running stitches on the wrong 
side in a line with the blanket stitch, and catch 



30 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

the needle in the loop of the last stitch, and 
bring to the right side and proceed as before. 



i 



BLANKET STITCH 



The blanket stitch is used to finish raw edges 
of flannel and of blankets, where there is not so 
much wear and tear on the material. After the 
raw edges are nicely finished with the blanket 
stitch, the sample is ready to be pressed with 
a warm iron for the portfolio. 

In this last sample Annalu's colors were dif- 
ferent from the first one. She used orange, 
purple, and pink, and for the blanket stitch a 
brown floss was used. Of course any colors may 
be selected but these were the colors this little 
girl thought looked well together. 

It is to be hoped every one is as fortunate as 
Annalu in having a trunk in the garret or store- 
room, in which there are wonders in the way of 
all kinds of pretty velvet, silks, and laces, pieces 
perhaps of beautiful dresses made for some 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 31 

auntie, cousin, or relative, in the days gone 
by. 

On trips to this treasure trunk, if there is 
time enough, perhaps stories are unfolded of the 
long voyages of old sea-captains, who sailed 
away to foreign parts and returned with beauti- 
ful presents of shawls, and dresses, or maybe of 
the happy life of some little girl long gone be- 
yond, who danced, and played, and had so many 
interesting things happen to her that one 
would almost believe all the good times had been 
for little girls who lived in the past. 

On this particular trip all these finer pieces 
of silks were passed by and just checked ging- 
hams and muslins were selected, and carried 
down to the sewing room. Annalu was delighted 
when her mother told her these were to be used 
for practice in sewing. 

Up to now the coarse canvas and heavy flosses 
had been used, while she learned just how the 
stitches were made; now they would begin to 
sew with finer thread and needle on cotton goods. 
The pretty pieces of checked gingham were 
cut in oblong strips four inches by six inches, 
and in order that Annalu might have her own 
materials to use, her mother had her cut pieces 



32 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

of cardboard about one and one-half inches 
long, and one inch wide, and from the larger 
spools she wound off the different colored 
threads, and used these in making the stitches. 

In cutting the pieces care was taken to fol- 
low the bars across to get a nice even edge. In 
this sewing a number eight needle was used with 
number sixty thread. As little girls' eyes are 
not accustomed to doing very fine work it is 
better to use the colored thread on a different 
colored gingham. 

Annalu started with a pink colored gingham, 
having a white stripe for the cross bars. Just 
as in the canvas sample, she started with the 
basting stitch and used the bars as a guide. 
With a green cotton she carefully passed over 
and under the bars, in a straight line across the 
piece. As this is the basting stitch, of course 
the knot is on the right side. 

Practice is what is needed in this work, so 
three or four rows of this basting stitch must 
be done, and the rows can be made closer 
together. 

The uneven basting was next tried, with blue 
thread, and the same number of rows made. 
Having the bars as a guide, it is just as easy 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 33 

to arrange the stitches an even distance apart, 
as in the canvas sample. 

. Consulting the canvas sample each time as 
she finished one kind of stitch, with another 
colored cotton she started the next stitch, until 
she had made three or four rows of each stitch 
she had learned. 

If the needle happened to stick she remem- 
bered what she had been told in the earlier talks, 
and used the emery to polish it up and make it 
slide through the material. As cotton goods 
is softer than canvas, care must be taken not 
to draw the stitches too tightly or the work 
will pucker. 

The really interesting work in this practice 
began when Annalu started to use the stitches 
she had learned without anything to follow. 
This she did by cutting unbleached muslin in 
pieces four inches by six inches, and starting 
with the basting stitch, still using the colored 
thread, to see how straight a line she could 
make. The unbleached muslin was used because 
it is of coarser weave, and it is easier for little 
unaccustomed fingers to force the needle through 
the material. 

Annalu seemed to like making the stitches 



34 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

pretty well, for it really showed her how much 
she had learned in her practice. All the stitches 
she had learned were made on the unbleached 
muslin without any guide. At first she started 
by creasing the pieces and following the creased 
lines, but soon found she could make nice even 
stitches without the creases. 

The real test of what she had learned came in 
doing the next work her mother laid out for 
her. 

On pieces of muslin cut four inches by six 
inches, much finer than the unbleached muslin, 
she traced with lead-pencil, perfect circles and 
squares, and also a cross and a star, and with 
the colored cotton all the stitches were used in 
following the pencil outlines of the designs. 

In the square and the circle, the outline would 
be made in the basting stitch, then inside of the 
square and right next to the basting stitch, in 
another colored thread, would come the uneven 
basting, and this would be followed by the run- 
ning stitch, always using a thread of a different 
color, and using the last row as a guide for the 
new row. 

Working towards the centre within the square 
or circle, whichever is used, gives a very pretty 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 35 

effect when finished. Some of Annalu's best work 
was pressed out, and with these samples several 
pages were added to her portfolio. 



36 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER III 
NEEDLE BOOK 

Annalit was delighted with the needle book 
she had made, but she would not want every one 
to know how really proud she was when it 
brought such a handsome price at the church 
fair, where, with not a little fear and trembling, 
she had carried it as her contribution, because 
it had been made from an old blue, flowered 
brocade, concealed for a long time, no doubt, in 
the aforementioned treasure trunk. Light blue 
ribbon closed the book over the cream colored 
flannel, the edges of which were worked with 
light blue floss. 

This same needle book can be made from 
flowered cretonne, or any soft woolen or silk 
material, in the following way: 

Prepare four circles, three and three-quarters 
inches across, cut from cardboard, four circles 
four and one-fourth inches across cut from 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 37 

cretonne, or material selected, one circle three 
inches across cut from flannel, and one circle 
two and one-half inches across cut from flannel. 
A half -yard of ribbon a quarter of an inch wide, 
the shade to match the flowers in the cretonne, 
if cretonne is used, is also needed. 

Thread a needle with number thirty cotton, 
making a knot in the end of the thread. Take 
a circle of material, being very careful not to 
pull it out of shape, making a fine running stitch 
about a quarter of an inch from the edge all 
around the circle, take the circle of cardboard, 
lay on the wrong side of circle of material, and 
draw the thread so as to make the material fit 
the cardboard nicely. 

Take two or three stitches in the last running 
stitch made to hold the thread tight, take long 
stitches back and forward across the cardboard 
to hold the material smooth, fasten the end of 
thread, cover the other three circles of card- 
board in the same way. 

Next take two covered circles and lay the 
two wrong sides together and overhand them. 

This overhanding was a new stitch to Annalu, 
but as she was now able to use her needle skil- 
fully, it was easy for .her to do it. 



38 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

To overhand, hold the two circles near the 
edge between the thumb and first finger of the 
left hand, using the second finger with the 
thumb to hold the work in place. Pull the 
thread through the edge of upper circle, leav- 
ing a half-inch end to the thread, put the needle 
through the edge of second circle, turn end of 
thread towards the left and the first two or 
three stitches take over it. 

Working from the right to the left, take 
stitches through the edges of both circles. 
Carry the thread over and point the needle in 
towards the body each time. Do not draw the 
stitches tight. Overhand all around the edges 
and fasten the end of thread by sewing back 
over the last few stitches. If new thread has to 
be taken before finishing the circle be sure and 
leave an end and sew it under the next few 
stitches. 

Join the other two circles in the same way; 
this makes two circles covered on both sides. 
Next lay the two circles side by side so the two 
edges meet. 

Take the ribbon and place it across the centre 
of circles, leaving the ends of ribbon extending 
an equal distance from the edge of each circle. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 39 

Pin the ribbon across the circles in a straight 
line, and tack it to the circles with three or 
four back stitches, first on the edge of the circles, 
and then in two places on each circle, equal dis- 
tances apart. This gives space for three pack- 
ages of needles on each side. 

Next take the two circles of flannel, and with 
twist to match make the blanket stitch, that was 
used on the edge of the sample, all around the 
edges of the flannel. Lay the smaller circle of 
flannel on top of the larger one, with the edges 
meeting at one side, and tack to the ribbon, 
where the two larger circles are joined. These 
flannel circles are for the loose needles. 

The overhand stitch is used for sewing flat 
seams that will not show very much, as in under- 
clothing, table and bed linens, sewing on laces, 
and patching, or on special occasions in binding 
two surfaces together, as in the needle book. 

The picture shows the needle book open, and 
how it looks when closed. Tying the ends of 
the ribbon in a bow keeps the book closed. 

The following Saturday afternoon Annalu 
went to the birthday party of one of her little 
school friends, whose name was Jane Brown. 
Jane was a very active child — in fact people 



40 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

sometimes were so unkind as to call her a " tom- 
boy " because of her fondness for running races 
and climbing trees and doing other things in 
which the boys excel. 

Just a few weeks before this party Jane had 



Closed Open 

THE NEEDLE BOOK 



fallen from a tree into which she had climbed, 
despite the protests of her friends, and sprained 
her ankle. It was, of course, impossible for her 
to move about, so instead of having the usual 
birthday party with romping games, Jane's 
mother decided not to invite any little boys, who 
always get so restless if asked to> sit still, but 
to invite only girls and request them to bring 
something to sew. 

If all the little girls sat down and sewed, 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 41 

Jane's thoughtful mother knew that her lively 
little daughter would not notice her own cap- 
tivity so much — for Jane was really a captive 
to her chair. 

When Annalu learned that Jane's party was 
to be a " sewing bee " she " thanked her stars," 
as the saying goes, and also thanked her mother, 
because she had learned to sew a little. When 
she arrived at Jane's house, rather a long dis- 
tance away, she found most of the other guests 
there and already at work. 

Some of them were knitting, which is much 
easier than sewing for most people, and nearly 
every girl had a pretty bag, which she kept her 
work in, when not using it. But Annalu, who 
brought her newly finished needle book, was the 
only little girl there who had so pretty and con- 
venient an article, and she was the centre of 
admiration among her schoolmates. 

Each girl immediately determined to make a 
needle book for herself. Annalu's was well made 
and attractive and she spent most of the time 
instructing two of the other girls how to make 
one. So impatient were they to start, after see- 
ing Annalu's, that Jane's mother offered to give 
them the material. 



42 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

Later on, when the little girls filed into the 
dining room for the refreshments, Annalu's 
needle book, which was still being passed from 
one girl to another for examination, received 
as much attention almost as Jane's birthday 
cake, with its thick pink frosting, and lighted 
with candles, which occupied the centre of the 
table. 

As Annalu was walking home, very happy in- 
deed because of the pleasant things said of her 
work, she never gave a single thought to the 
irksome practice hours when she had learned to 
make the stitches, and she looked forward with 
great eagerness to her next lesson. 

Her mother was delighted when she learned 
of the praise her little girl's needle book had re- 
ceived and she smiled happily to herself in think- 
ing of how wise she had been in deciding to teach 
Annalu to sew, when the rewards of her labor 
made the child so joyful. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 43 



CHAPTER IV 
HEMMING 

Up to now all the sewing had been done on 
one thickness of material, with the exception 
of the overhanding in the needle book. In this 
new work to be taken up, sewing a folded edge 
against another thickness of material would be 
considered, for that is what hemming really is. 

Annalu's mother said that, after learning the 
simple stitches, hemming was one of the first 
things a seamstress had to learn, and not only 
a seamstress, but every good housewife should 
know how to hem. Before there were so many 
inventions to do the work that the hands had 
been doing, many hours of the housewife's time 
were spent in work that could be done just as 
well by machinery. But fine hand work on 
household linen, has always been a mark of re- 
finement. Annalu was shown some of the beau- 



44 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

tiful hemmed towels her mother had done when 
she was young. 

In those days it was part of a girl's training 
to prepare all the linen she needed to set up a 
household all her own, and piece by piece, as 
they were finished, they were laid away in a 
cedar chest, between folds of blue paper scented 
with lavender or orris root. 

When Annalu looked at her mother's fine 
hemming, she thought she would never be able 
to make such even stitches, but they did not 
begin on fine linen at once. She learned to hem 
on very coarse muslin with colored thread at 
first, until she knew just how to take the stitches, 
so she could see them and not strain her eyes. 
But she prepared the hem and made the stitch 
just the same as on fine material. 

The hem was made an inch deep on a piece of 
coarse muslin cut five and a half inches wide 
and four inches deep. 

To get the hem ready for sewing is just as 
important as being able to do fine stitches. 
Every part of the hem has to be measured to 
get it even; to do this a piece of cardboard is 
prepared which is called a marker. This is the 
way to make it : 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



45 



Cut a piece of cardboard one inch wide and 
three inches long. See that the edge is per- 
fectly straight. Decide how wide the hem is 
to be, cut a notch the width of the hem, away 




} 



TURNING AND BASTING HEM GUIDE FOR 

TURNING HEM 



from the end; that is, if the hem is to be an 
inch wide, make a notch an inch from the end 
of the cardboard. 

On the long side of the muslin strip turn in 
the raw edge one eighth of an inch, and crease 
with the thumb nail; next with the marker 
notched for an inch hem, lay the end of the 
marker on the turned-in edge, and turn up hem 
just where the straight side of the notch comes 
on the muslin. 

Crease along this second turning and baste 
this turned-in edge against the lower side with 
an even basting stitch. Fill the needle with 



46 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



number seventy thread; do not make a knot, 
but fasten the end by passing the needle under 
the fold and taking the first few stitches over it. 
Hold the material over the first finger of the 




HEMMING 



left hand, with the edge of hem away from the 
body, and the turned-in edge on the upper side. 

Take a slanting stitch, first through the mate- 
rial under the hem, then up through the fold, 
catching the very edge as the needle comes out ; 
draw the needle out to the end of the thread; 
take another stitch in the same way. Work 
towards the left and make the stitches as small 
and even as possible, and equidistant from each 
other. 

After this was finished and pressed, and put 
in the portfolio, it filled only half of the page, 
so Annalu's mother said that they would make 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



47 



a sample of the French hem, for the lower half 
of the page. 

In this, a narrow hem is turned down just 
the same as in a plain hem ; then, on a line with 
the first fold of the hem, turn back to the right 
side of the material and crease. With the needle 
and thread overhand in the same way as when 
making the needle book. When this is properly 
done, a small up-and-down stitch is seen on the 




FRENCH HEM 



right side and a slanting stitch shows on the 
wrong side. 

This stitch is used in hemming table cloths, 
napkins, and dish towels, as the hem does not 
wash out so easily and it irons out flat and 
smooth. 

It was not very long afterwards that Annalu 
was drying dishes with a towel hemmed by her- 
self. These towels were cut three quarters of a 



48 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

yard long and a half -inch hem turned in, and 
finished with a French hem. 

Through the thoughtfulness of this little 
girl's mother, besides learning about sewing she 
was able to help some one else less fortunate 
than herself. 

Sometimes she accompanied her mother on 
shopping trips in a near-by city. On one of 
the most crowded thoroughfares, there was an 
old woman always standing with a basket in 
which there were a number of articles for sale, 
such as pins and needles, pencils, and sometimes 
something she had made herself. 

On one occasion she had a number of holders, 
for in every well organized kitchen will be found 
just such holders for lifting pots and covers. 

But every one does not have them covered 
with a neat little envelope that can be slipped 
off and laundered. So Annalu's mother had the 
happy thought of making a sample of this 
case and giving it to this old woman, so she 
would know how to make them herself to sell. 

Soon after, Annalu, who went to the city with 
a friend of her mother's, was hurrying to the 
store for some thread which her mother needed 
for a very special dress on which she was work- 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 49 

ing. She noticed three ladies, talking and smil- 
ing, around the old woman who sold fancy 
articles at the corner. 

Annalu, although she was in a hurry, lingered 
a moment to see the cause of the smiles, because 
she was naturally interested in this woman. Ap- 
proaching closer she saw that each of the ladies 
was purchasing one of the colored holders and 
that each was congratulating the seller upon 
the attractive appearance and the utility of the 
article. 

The old lady looked up from counting change 
and noticing Annalu's interested face, recognized 
her as the child whose mother had taught her 
how to make the covers. 

She was too busy with her customers to stop 
and say anything to Annalu, and indeed Annalu 
was already edging away, for, having satisfied 
her curiosity, she realized that she should com- 
plete her errand. But the old woman gave the 
little girl a smile and a look of understanding 
which said as plainly as words could do, " I 
thank you." 

Annalu sped on her way to the store for the 
thread. And returning home she felt the same 
glow of satisfaction as on the day she returned 



50 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

from Jane's party, when her needle book had 
been so greatly admired. Only she felt even 
happier for some reason or other. After think- 
ing about it for a little while she decided that 
while the needle book had brought pleasure to 
herself, the covers had made another happy. 
And so she discovered that there is more joy in 
doing for others than in doing for oneself. 

When Annalu returned home with the thread, 
she told her mother of the experience, and how 











F j r M 3 _ M .i3^ 


J.. 
















































* 


zM 










z ! 


°> 










x ; 


S*! 2 








SI 




off" 










ivf ! 


"* 










1 " 




CASE FINISHED 




STRIP FOR CASE 





she felt about it and the mother again smiled 
her wise smile, and said to herself that Annalu 
was learning more than sewing stitches these 
days. 

This is how the case is made: 

Cut a straight piece of gingham fourteen and 
a half inches long, by five and a quarter inches 
wide. 

On the two long sides turn in the raw edges 
an eighth of an inch, and then turn in an eighth 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 51 

of an inch again. Baste and hem down. On 
one short side make an eighth of an inch hem 
the same as on the two long sides. 

On the other short side make a half-inch hem 
by first turning the raw edge in an eighth of an 
inch. From the end with the half-inch hem 
measure up two inches on each long side and 
crease ; on the crease run a basting thread. 

Fold the end with the eighth of an inch hem 
up to the line of basting, so the wrong side of 
the hemming is on the inside, and overhand the 
edges together, on both sides of cover; this 
leaves a flap of two inches. Fold this two-inch 
flap down on the line of basting, which makes a 
little case five inches square, in which to slip 
the pot holder to keep it clean. 



52 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER V 
THE FIRST APRON 

Annalu had always worn pinafores made by 
her mother, but in washing dishes, a privilege 
she sometimes enjoyed was to have her mother's 
apron tied around her neck, and belted in at the 
waist line, by crossing the strings in the back, 
and bringing them forward and tying them in 
the front. Now, however, she was to wear an 
apron cut out, and every stitch put in, by her- 
self. Of course as this was her first apron it 
was made in the simplest way. When this was 
finished she made her first long hem, learned to 
gather, and sew on a band. This is an easy way 
to make an apron. 

From a yard of percale, either striped or fig- 
ured, cut a piece twenty inches long and twenty- 
four inches wide. Cut another straight piece of 
the same material two inches wide and twenty- 
seven inches long. 




FOR A LITTLE GIRL 53 

On the sides measuring twenty inches long, 
turn up a quarter of an inch hem, first turning 
in the raw edge an eighth of an 
inch, and hem down, with num- 
ber sixty white thread. On one 
of the other raw edges turn up a 
two-inch hem, first turning in 
the raw edge a quarter of an 
inch. 

the first apron Be sure to have all the hems 

turned up on the same side. Let 
the side with the broad hem be the bottom of the 
apron. In the top of the apron put two gather- 
ing strings in the following way : 

Fill the needle with number fifty thread, six- 
teen inches long, knot the end ; a quarter of an 
inch from the top of the apron take a few 
threads of the material on needle and skip twice 
as many threads before putting needle in mate- 
rial for another stitch. Take several stitches on 
needle before drawing thread through, being 
careful not to take a back stitch, as this would 
prevent the gathers from sliding easily on the 
thread. Sew across top of apron in a straight 
line, unthread needle and knot the end of thread. 
This is the way to gather : 



54 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



Make a second row of gathers a quarter of 
an inch away from the first row, knot the 
threads and, taking the ends of the threads, 
draw up to fourteen inches. Put a pin in the 
last gathering stitch and twist the ends around 
so they will not slip. 

It is better to be very particular to mark the 




THE WAY TO GATHER 



gathers when putting them on the band. Divide 
the top of apron in half, and mark with two or 
three stitches in black thread, using running 
stitches going from top of apron towards the 
bottom. 

Fold the two inch band in half and mark with 
black thread the same way ; measure from the 
marking seven inches each way on the band, 
and mark with the black thread at the end of 
seven inches. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 55 

Next lay the gathered edge of the jtpron 
against the raw edge of the narrow strip, mak- 
ing the centre of the gathered edge of the 
apron meet the centre of the raw edge of the 
narrow strip. Tack with a few stitches, have 
the sides of the gathered edge meet the other 
two markings of black thread on the narrow 
strip, and tack near the edge. 

Baste the gathered edge to the band by hold- 
ing over the first fingers of the left hand, 
and keep in place with the thumb. Have the 
wrong side of gathers on top, and the straight 
band on the bottom, and with the point of the 
needle pull the gathers down even, along the 
band. 

Sew with the stitching stitch, or back stitch 
the gathers to the band a quarter of an inch 
from the edge. 

Crease the other raw edge of the band down 
an eighth of an inch and fold over, letting the 
edge just cover the stitching of the gathers, 
being sure that the middle of the upper edge of 
the strip comes to the middle of the gathers. 
Pin and baste. Take out all colored markings 
before sewing firmly, as they might discolor the 
material in washing. 



56 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



Finish turning in the raw edges at the bottom 
of the band and baste. Next fold the ends in 
a quarter of an inch, and baste. Overhand the 
edges of the band all around to the gathers, 
hem across the band on the gathers and continue 
overhanding the rest of the band and edge. In 
hemming across the band be careful not to take 




THE WAY TO FINISH BAND 



the stitches all the way through, but just catch 
the needle in the gathers and the upper side of 
the band. 

A quicker way to finish the band is with a 
running stitch, but this is not so strong and will 
not wear so well. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 57 



CHAPTER VI 
THE DOLL'S PETTICOAT 

It was a lovely thing to see Annalu's delight 
over the first skirt she made for her dolly, and 
to note the care with which she took every stitch. 
The making of this petticoat was of Annalu's 
own choosing before her mother had directed 
what should be taken up next, but this time 
Annalu was to say what she wanted to do, and 
the selection was decided more by Annalu find- 
ing a nice piece of cambric among the left 
overs in the sewing basket, than because her 
dolly was in actual need of a new petticoat. 
Of course she could have used longcloth, or 
muslin ; both are good for underwear. 

Her mother said a pattern would not be 
necessary as they would make it with only one 
seam, but they would go about it just as care- 
fully as if the petticoat was to be Annalu's very 
own, only the seams would be shorter, and would 
not take so long to do. 



58 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

So that the garment would not be too large 
or too small, and to obtain some idea of how to 
cut it, it was necessary to do some measuring of 
Miss Dolly, and with pencil and paper write 
each measurement down. This is how Annalu 
was directed to take the measurements: 

See how large dolly is around the waist. 
Next measure from her waist down to her knees 
or as long as skirt is to be. This will be the 
length of skirt when finished ; add to it one inch 
for a hem, and if it is decided to have tucks in 
the skirt, for every tuck, twice the size of the 
tuck should be allowed. The width around the 
bottom of skirt is made three times as large as 
the waist measurement. To cut the skirt the 
right size for dolly, Annalu, with the measure- 
ment she had taken, reasoned this way : if dolly 
measured eight and a half inches around the 
waist, six and a half inches from her waist to 
the knees, adding one inch for the hem, and one 
and a half inches for three tucks a quarter of 
an inch wide, the skirt should be cut nine inches 
long. Three times her waist measure would 
make the skirt twenty-five and a half inches 
wide. So a straight piece of material nine 
inches long and twenty-five and one half inches 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 59 

wide was cut. Then a strip twice the length of 
the opening, and one inch wide, was cut for the 
placket. 

For the band cut a strip nine inches long and 
one inch wide. To make, take the large piece 
of material first and lay the two short sides to- 
gether, and baste half way up, and with number 
seventy cotton sew with a fine running stitch an 
eighth of an inch from the edge of the material. 
Sewing these two edges together is called plain 
seaming. 

Take scissors and trim very close to the stitch- 
ing, press the seam open with the thumb nail, 
and turn the two right sides together, so the 
line of the plain seaming is on the edge of the 
turning. Baste, and with the stitching stitch, 
sew, so as to cover the raw edges of the plain 
seam. This way of enclosing a plain seam in 
another seam is called French seaming. 

The edges could also be joined with a hemmed 
fell. This is done in the following way: lay 
the edges together, let one edge come an eighth 
of an inch over the other edge, and join with a 
running stitch, open the seam out flat, and turn 
the wider edge over the other one, and crease 
down with the thumb nail; turn under the raw 



60 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

edge of the wide side so as to cover the other 
edge. Baste, and with a fine stitch, hem down 
to the material underneath. 

The large piece is now joined in a ring with 
an opening at the top. Calling the side with 
the seam on it the wrong side, hem the bottom 
on the wrong side by turning up the raw edge 
a quarter of an inch, and then one inch again. 
Baste and hem with a fine stitch. 

The skirt is now ready for the tucks. It is 
quite an art to get tucks arranged evenly, but 
there is a rule to go by. Tucks are just folds, 
stitched in the material a certain distance apart. 
It looks well to leave the width of a tuck between 
the hem and the first tuck. 

If the tuck is a quarter of an inch wide, allow 
one quarter of an inch space between, and twice 
the width of the tuck for the fold, and one fourth 
of an inch for the tuck to fold down on. So the 
space to measure up from the top of the hem 
is three times the width of the tuck. Fold down 
on this line and stitch a quarter of an inch above 
this fold. 

When there are two or three tucks to be put 
in, it is better to take a piece of cardboard and 
make a marker showing the measurement for 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



61 



folding and the line for stitching and with this 
marker fold down the material for the tuck and 
baste along the line indicated for stitching. 

Tucks made by hand are usually put in with 
a running stitch. After making the first tuck 




THE WAY TO MAKE A TUCK 

a. Guide for Stitching- Tuck. 
b. Hem, or Last Tuck as Guide for next 
Tuck. 



take out the basting stitch and use the stitching 
of the tuck to measure from for the second tuck, 
and so on with the third, and as many more as 
are needed. 

With the tucks all in, the placket is the next 
to be made. Annalu made what is known as 
the continuous placket. Starting from the top 
of the opening, lay the raw edge of the straight 
piece cut for the placket, against the raw edge 



62 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

of opening on the wrong side and baste. Stitch 
with a running stitch one eighth of an inch 
from the edge all around the opening. 




SEWING STRIP TO EDGES OF HEMMING STRAIGHT STRIP 
OPENING FOR PLACKET OPENING FOR PLACKET 

At the bottom of the placket be careful not 
to draw the seam of the skirt. Crease down the 
other raw edge of the strip one eighth of an 
inch, and fold down on the lower edge just 
enough to cover the first stitching. Baste down 
and hem. In hemming catch only the turned 
in edge and one thickness of material under- 
neath. 

On the right hand side turn the folded edge 
under, on the skirt, the width of the fold and 
baste. At the bottom of the right hand side 
of the placket, back stitch the fold to the skirt. 
When the skirt is closed the fold on the left 
hand side of the placket extends under the right 
hand side. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



63 



After the placket is carefully put in the band 
can be attached. This was not entirely new 
to Annalu, as she had made her apron with a 
band. Divide the piece cut for the band, in half, 
and then in quarter again, and mark with bast- 
ings running across the short side. On each 
end of band mark the width of the placket with 
pins. Divide the skirt in half and quarter 
again, and mark. With two threads a little 
longer than the band, put two rows of gather- 




THE FINISHED PLACKET AND BAND 



ings in the top of the skirt. Pin the centre of 
the skirt to the centre of the band, pin the 
quarter markings of the skirt to the quarter 
markings of the band. 

Draw the top of the skirt up to fit the band, 
and pin the end of the placket, on the right 
hand side, to the band where the pin is, and 
on the left hand side let the fold extend beyond 



64 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

the place marked by the pin. This places the 
skirt perfectly even on the band, and allows the 
folded-in edge of the placket to lap over the 
extended edge. 

In the front of the skirt push a few of the 
gathers towards the back, and pin along in 
several places, then starting from the end, baste 
along carefully. 

Stroke the gathers down with the point of 
the needle, by starting where the gathering 
thread passes through the 
material, and drawing the 
point down through the gath- 
ers every few stitches. Turn 
in the raw edges of the ends, 
and along the upper side of 
^ II ^ band, and fold down on the 

THE FINISHED SKIRT ,1 j i . 11 1 „. 

gathers and baste all along 
the band and turn in the ends. 

Hem down, starting from the top of the end 
of the band, work across the gathers towards 
the other end. This practically finishes the 
skirt, all but the buttonhole and button. The 
tucks look much nicer if pressed with a hot 
iron. 

Before the buttonhole could be worked in the 




FOR A LITTLE GIRL 65 

band of this nicely made skirt, some practice is 
needed to make a really good buttonhole. 

But Annalu did not wait for the buttonhole 
to be finished before trying on the skirt. Her 
doll, a very pretty one with blonde hair and big 
blue eyes, looked very much " dressed up " in 
the bright new skirt. 

" Dear me," said Mrs. Jones, one of the neigh- 
bors, who happened in just as Annalu was 
smoothing the skirt and propping up her doll 
where she could look out the window. " Dear 
me, I don't see, Mrs. Carter, how you ever find 
time to make doll's fixings for Annalu. Why, 
it's all I can do these days to keep the children 
in stockings and get their underclothes mended, 
without trying any fancy doings like that." 
She sniffed disapprovingly. 

" But I didn't make that skirt," Annalu's 
mother hastened to assure the envious neighbor. 

" Do you mean to tell me that you actually 
bought a doll's skirt for the child, hard times 
and all? " Mrs. Jones was frankly censorious 
now. 

" Certainly not" replied Mrs. Carter, with 
dignity. " Annalu made that garment from 
some material we had in the house." 



66 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

" Oh," murmured Mrs. Jones, and that was 
all she could think of to say. She glanced 
apologetically and admiringly, too, at Annalu, 
who was sitting at the window, somewhat em- 
barrassed by her neighbor's mistake. Poor 
woman, she was probably thinking of her fly- 
away daughter, Molly, who was as much of a 
trial as Jane Brown and whose clothes were 
always in need of repair. And Molly hardly 
knew how to thread a needle! 

Very soon afterwards Mrs. Jones got up to 
go home and there was a set, determined look 
about her mouth. When Annalu's mother closed 
the door after her visitor she looked at her 
little girl and said with a smile, " I think, 
Annalu, that there will be another student of 
sewing in this neighborhood very shortly." 

Annalu gave a delighted little giggle and 
hugged her doll closer, quite disregarding the 
new skirt. And the doll, whose name, by the 
way, was Henrietta, seemed to smile right back 
at Annalu in gratitude for the new skirt. 

Annalu could hardly wait until the next day 
to see Molly! 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 67 



CHAPTER VII 
THE BUTTONHOLE 

Annalu with great dexterity applied herself 
to developing a buttonhole that was very ar- 
tistic and beautiful when finished. This is not 
an easy thing to do, but she smilingly ap- 
proached the hardest task with the determina- 
tion to do her very best and not be fretful and 
discouraged if everything didn't just go right 
at first. For practice in working the button- 
hole she prepared a piece of coarse muslin eight 
inches long and three inches wide. 

" Turn in the raw edges and baste together, 
then sew with a running stitch. This is the 
material on which the different steps are 
shown," said Mrs. Carter and gave Annalu the 
following directions : 

Mark with pins five places one and a half 
inches apart, and an equal distance from either 
side. Baste all around the pins and far enough 



68 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

away to give room enough to work the button- 
hole. This basting keeps the two thicknesses 
of material from slipping. 

On the straight thread of the material cut a 
slash on the place marked by the first pin, the 
width the buttonhole is to be made. The first 
slash is left to show how to cut the buttonhole. 

In the second marking cut another slash the 
same size, and show how the corners are stayed 
by barring the edges. 

In the third place, after the slash is made, and 
the corners barred, the next step is shown in 
overcasting the raw edges to keep from pulling 
out in working. 

The fourth hole shows the buttonhole worked 
on one side and how to work the corner, and 
the last slash is for finishing the buttonhole. 

To work this buttonhole, begin by holding 
the slash in the material over the first finger of 
the left hand, and with a piece of thread long 
enough to finish the buttonhole without taking 
new thread (use number thirty cotton, and a 
needle not too coarse), strengthen the slash by 
taking a horizontal stitch across one end. Take 
another stitch right on top of the last one, carry 
the thread across to the other corner, and take 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 69 

two stitches the same as in the first corner, and 
carry the thread back to the first corner again. 

This process is called barring. 

From here overcast around the cut edges, 
always working toward the left, and finishing 
at the corner from which the overcasting was 
started. The overcasting should not be any 
deeper than one eighth of an inch. 

Bring the needle through to the right side 
just below where the last overcasting stitch was 







k 


M 


i 




















1 














\ 






n 


ft 


* 


¥ 








\ 












r 



































CORRECT POSITION OF THE NEEDLE IK 
PEARLING FOR BUTTONHOLE 



taken, run in through the slash, and bring it 
up in the hole where the last stitch was taken, 
do not draw the needle out, but throw the double 
thread at the eye of the needle, around to the 
left, and under the point of the needle, draw the 
needle through the little loop just made and 
straight up from the slash. 



70 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

This loop is called the pearl, and should 
lay right on the cut edge of the slash. 

Do not draw the stitch too tight, or it will 
pucker the material, and make the button- 
hole uneven. Repeat this pearling until the 
side is finished. 

At the end take a few slanting stitches, 
spreading them out at the bottom, so as to round 




THE WAY TO HOLD THE 

MATERIAL FOR MAKING 

BUTTONHOLE 



the corner nicely, and turn the work on the 
finger, and continue on the other side as in the 
beginning. 

When the other end is reached, finish by tak- 
ing three little stitches across, and exactly on 
top of each other, and work blanket stitches on 
top of these, very close together. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 71 

Fasten the thread by running it back under 
the stitches on the wrong side. 

This sample was nicely pressed out, and put 
in the portfolio, and Annalu felt, as she looked 
at the nice even stitches in the buttonhole, that 
she was well repaid for her patience in learning 
to make it. 

As Annalu finished the pressing she heard a 
knock on the door, and running to open it she 
almost collided with Molly Jones, who was so 
anxious to see her that she did not wait to have 
her knock answered, but walked in. 

In one hand Molly held a doll — a small, 
dark-haired doll neither so neat nor so pretty 
as Annalu's Henrietta — and in the other a big 
work basket. 

" My mother says that Annalu is learning 
how to sew, and can make doll's clothes," be- 
gan Molly, speaking very rapidly, for Molly 
was one of those little girls who do everything 
rapidly, and present a flustered appearance on 
all occasions. 

" Oh, I am, Molly," cried Annalu, " and it's 
lots of fun, too. See this. I've just been 
practising buttonholes." 

M Buttonholes," said Molly, with awe in her 



72 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

voice. " Why, I thought they were so hard that 
only ladies could do them." 

" Well, they aren't very easy," Annalu ad- 
mitted cheerfully, " but you must learn the 
other stitches first." 

" I guess I know I must," said Molly rue- 
fully. " My mother said if you could do 
such nice work in sewing and you two years 
younger than I am, I must learn and keep 
my things mended. But she said she would give 
me some bright material for doll's clothes, too, 
when I learned. So I came over to see if Annalu 
could teach me, or if I could take lessons when 
she does." 

" Certainly, you may," said Mrs. Carter cor- 
dially. " I know that your mother, with so 
large a family " (the Jones children were seven 
in number) " has very little time to teach you, 
and it will be more agreeable for Annalu to have 
another little pupil working with her. Then 
you can profit by each other's mistakes." 

Molly looked very pleased, because, for all 
she was such a hoydenish girl and not very 
neat in her appearance, she always wanted to 
look nice and to have accomplishments. Indeed, 
she admired Annalu very much for her spick- 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 73 

and-span ways, although Annalu was younger 
and naturally did not expect much attention 
from an older girl. 

" But," she said, after a moment's reflection, 
" I can't start with Annalu now, can I, because 
she is so much farther along than I." 

Here Annalu broke in. " Oh, mother, let me 
teach Molly the stitches I have learned." 

" Very well," agreed Mrs. Carter. " I sup- 
pose it's only natural that the pupil should 
want to play teacher for a while. It will give 
Annalu a good review and as I am very busy 
with my own work just now I think I can post- 
pone new lessons until Molly catches up." 

Now Annalu really had a much more difficult 
task in teaching Molly than Mrs. Carter had 
had in teaching Annalu. But Molly was fired 
with ambition, and although she was not as deft 
with her fingers as her chum, she was so very 
industrious that Annalu did not find her teach- 
er's work too wearing. 

The girls worked several afternoons together, 
being careful not to tire themselves by sitting 
too long in one position or working after the 
light began to grow dim. Mrs. Carter helped 
them frequently, busy as she was. In a much 



74 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

shorter time than any one would have thought 
Molly had " caught up " with Annalu, for she 
was quick to learn, once she made up her mind 
to work hard. When she finally brought her 
buttonhole sample to her mother for approval 
Mrs. Jones' delight was unbounded. 

Hangers and Fasteners 

After the buttonhole was mastered time was 
taken for consideration of all the kinds of fast- 
eners and hangers that are used on garments. 
A strip was prepared, one for Annalu and one 
for Molly, as for making the buttonholes, and 
starting from the top these different things were 
arranged on the sample. This interesting 
sample was made in the following way. 

At the top of the strip, the button was sewed 
on first. Buttons are always sewed through two 
thicknesses of material, so that they will not 
pull out. 

Thread the needle with number fifty cotton, 
double the thread and make a knot, from the 
right side, run the needle to the wrong side, and 
bring it back to the right side, and up through 
the hole in the button, run it down through 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 75 

another hole diagonally across from the hole 
the needle came up through. Slip a pin under 
the thread on the right side and sew the stitches 
over this pin. 

Come up through another hole and go down 
in the hole diagonally across, take out pin, 
carry the thread back to the wrong side, and 
come up to the right side again. Do not pass 
through a hole, but wrap the thread three or 
four times around the stitches between the mate- 
rial and the button, to make a stem, and fasten 
the thread under the button with three slanting 
stitches. 

The Blind Eye 

The second on the sampler was the blind eye. 
Blind eyes are used in place of the ordinary 
eyes, so the metal will not show. 

With a double thread and a knot in the end, 
bring the needle up to the right.side of material, 
take a stitch one quarter of an inch long, and 
push the needle back to the wrong side, and up 
in the same place the last stitch was taken. 
Take two such stitches right over the first one. 
This makes a bar one quarter of an inch long. 

Hold the threads down with the left thumb, 



76 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

start from the end of the bar, put the needle 
under the bar and over the thread, as in a 
buttonhole, and draw the thread up. Cover 
the entire bar with these stitches, putting the 
stitches close together. Fasten the thread on 
the wrong side. For practice make three of 
these loops in a row. 

Eyelets 

The next to be made are eyelets. Eyelets are 
used for putting ribbon through, or for putting 
the shanks of buttons through, so the buttons 
can be removed when washing the garment 
without spoiling the buttons. This pleased 
Molly, whose buttons used to be missing so 
often. 

With a stiletto make a round hole in the mate- 
rial, and placing the material over the first finger 
of the left hand, outline the hole with running 
stitches, and with stitches very close together 
overcast the edge of the hole. 

Hooks and Eyes 

On the sampler the first way of sewing the 
hooks and eyes on is shown, but in placing the 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



77 



hook on a garment it should be placed a little 
way in from the edge of the joining, so the open- 
ing will not gap, 
and the eye is cov- 
ered. 

If the eye is 
placed on the edge 
of joining it can be 
fastened more 
easily. 

With number 
fifty thread, sew the 
eye with three or 
four overhand 
stitches in the rings 
and over the side of 
the eye. 

The hook is 

sewed with the same 

stitch, in the rings. 

Take several 

stitches across the 

hook just at the 

bend. Fasten the thread on the wrong side by 

taking two or three stitches on top of each other. 

Hooks and eyes are sometimes sewed on with a 




HANGERS AND FASTENERS 

a. Sewing in Button 

b. Working Blind Eye 

C. Making Eyelet 



78 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

buttonhole stitch, by holding the hook or eye 
against the material and buttonholing them 
down. 

The Flat Loop 

At the bottom of the sampler was shown how 
to make a flat loop. With a piece of tape two 
and a half inches long turn down both ends a 
half inch, place the tape on the sampler and 
stitch the ends to the material with a hemming 
stitch. Then back stitch a quarter of an inch 
down from the ends. 

The Folded Loop 

In the space the other side of the flat loop 
was shown how to make a folded loop. 

Take a piece of tape a half-inch wide, and 
five inches long. Fold in half, and overhand 
the two edges together on side a half -inch down 
from the fold. 

Open out the fold so that the overhanded sides 
form a point at one side of the fold, and the 
overhanded edges lay flat side by side. Close 
the top of the little pocket formed, by back 
stitching down to the lower side. 

Turn in the raw edges of the hanger a quarter 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 79 

of an inch, and hem down to the sampler; hem 
down the sides one half an inch, and back stitch 
across to the other side and finish hemming to 
the turned-in edge. 

This loop folded to a point is always used 
when anything is to hang flat against the wall, 
such as wall pockets for keeping dusters in, 
and the little pockets made for the kitchen, for 
milk checks and memorandums. 

These last loops put on finished the sample, 
which was mounted on a leaf and added to the 
portfolio. Annalu had helped Molly on her 
portfolio and both little girls were much pleased 
to have these specimens of their handiwork to 
show to their other friends. 



80 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER VIII 
TALK ON TEXTILES 

Very interesting were the talks Annalu and 
her mother had about clothing, and materials 
used in sewing. Many hours were spent in read- 
ing the wonderful books written for children. 
These she would journey to the Library to ob- 
tain, often with Molly. Until she was old 
enough to understand the stories her mother 
told her and read a great many books for her- 
self, she thought as do all other little girls, 
that there had always been just such beautiful 
fabrics as are seen to-day, and always the large 
mills and factories to make them. 

But in their reading and talks together she 
learned that in the dim ages of the past, little 
girls did not sew. Man first protected himself 
from the cold with skins of animals, and later 
on, in warmer climates, the women wove fibres 
and grasses together, by first twisting them, 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 81 

and gradually inventing other ways of making 
the strands hold together, and afterward fash- 
ioning them into the crudest kinds of garments, 
with sharp thorns for needles and the sinews of 
animals for thread. It was a long time before 
people really knew how to sew. 

Later on garments woven from cloth made 
from different kinds of material were used. 
This was made possible by the invention of the 
spinning-wheel, and later on the loom, run by 
machinery. To-day this is so wonderful that it 
seems like magic, the way it works out all the 
beautiful materials and patterns, just by touch- 
ing a button, or putting a bar in motion. 

These and many more marvelous stories can 
be found in books just waiting to be read by 
some small person who wants to know about 
nature, man, and wonderful things that have 
happened since the world began. 

Many little boys and girls are interested in 
stories of mythology, or about the habits of 
birds and animals, but to Annalu's enterprising 
mind, stories bearing on the discoveries and 
inventions for home life were most interesting. 
From these sources of reading she gained a 
wealth of knowledge about the materials used 



82 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

in every-day wear, which was valuable and in- 
structive. 

Some of these important and interesting 
things to remember in the art of sewing can 
be told in a brief way. 

All cloth is woven from yarns, made from ani- 
mal or vegetable fibre. 

Cotton comes from the cotton plant, and is 
cheap because it is raised in large quantities in 
the United States. It is used for weaving calico, 
cambric, long-cloth, gingham and all material 
of this kind. 

Linen, the oldest known cloth, comes from the 
flax plant, the best grades of which are grown 
in Europe. 

The real difference between cotton and linen 
is in the yarns. Cotton has a round twisted 
fibre, while the linen thread is made from a stiff 
and straight fibre. Linen has a nice glossy sur- 
face and is cool and soft to the touch. It is 
mostly used for tablecloths, napkins, and towels. 

The hair from the backs of sheep, goats, and 
some other animals is used for making the wool 
yarns, which are again woven into cloth for 
dresses, outside garments, and underclothing, 
because it is light in weight, and very warm. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL BS 

When the wool fibre is many times enlarged, 
one can see, it is made up of little tiny scales, 
and because of this cloth made from wool yarn 
will shrink when washed, especially if put in very 
hot water. 

Silk is made from the cocoon of the silk worm. 
Many books have been written on the interesting 
worm that weaves a single fibre, sometimes three 
thousand feet long, in which to enclose itself. 

The silk yarn has a finer lustre than cotton, 
wool or linen, and it takes the dye easier, but 
because of the great care in raising the worm, 
and the many processes of getting the silk ready 
for weaving, it is one of the most expensive fab- 
rics used for clothing. 

Weaving is passing threads over and under 
other threads. One set is called the woof, 
and the other set is called the warp. These 
threads are held in place by means of a frame 
called the loom. This can be very small and 
used by hand, or very large, run by steam or 
electricity. 

The warp threads run up and down, and 
are as long as the piece of cloth is to be. 

The woof threads run back and forward 
across the warp. 



84 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

The selvage is where the woof's threads turn 
on the outer thread of the warp, to pass back 
and forth. 

All the fastenings of threads should be made 
on one side of the cloth. The uneven places 
should be on this side, which is called the wrong 
side. 

The way the warp threads run is called the 
lengthwise of the material, and from selvage 
to selvage is called the crosswise of the material. 

The " up and down " of a garment is usually 
cut on the lengthwise fold of the material, as 
the warp threads are stronger than the woof. 

With all these facts in mind about the weav- 
ing and the kinds of textiles made, it was easy 
for Annalu to recognize them. She and Molly 
hunted through her mother's scrap basket for 
pieces of different kinds of material and put 
them in their portfolios. Mrs. Carter thought 
that notching the edges all around the squares 
they cut, would make them look more attractive, 
and prevent the raw edges from fraying. At 
least three samples of different fabrics were 
pasted on each page, and a space was left on 
one side to write the name of each. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 85 



CHAPTER IX 
BIAS STRIPS 

Annalu had been busy straightening out her 
mother's supply box, where things had become 
somewhat tangled and upset. Mother had said 
everything must be folded up as though they 
were the most precious belongings, and Annalu 
was just finishing her task by winding up a 
piece of bias binding, which had become unfolded 
from the card. On her inquiry as to what it 
was used for, her mother explained " facing neck 
bands, or any curved edges." Facings cut on 
the bias " set " much better, she said, and she 
also went on to say what a blessing it was to 
the busy needlewoman, to have this binding, cut, 
joined, and the edges turned in, all by machin- 
ery, ready for use. Much time is saved. But 
this binding cannot be matched in every kind 
of material and color, so it is necessary to know 
how to cut and join bias strips to make bind- 
ing. 



86 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

First, there is the true bias, which is used 
for binding and trimming. This is obtained in 
the following way : 

With a straight piece of material fold the 
corner of the raw edge of the woof threads down 
on the warp threads, crease and pin on the fold 
of the material. This forms a triangle. Cut 
along this crease. With a straight piece of 




DOTTED LINES TO FOLDING MATE- 
OBTAIN TRUE RIAL FOR MARK- 
BIAS ING TRUE BIAS 



paper mark the width the bias strip is to be, 
measure down from the cut edge of the material, 
and mark in several places, by pinning or mark- 
ing with chalk, and with a ruler draw a line 
connecting the points. Cut along this, through 
both thicknesses of cloth. 

If more bands are needed, repeat this process, 
measuring from cut edge each time. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 87 

To have a firm straight edge to fold in, it is 
important to join the bias strips carefully. Lay 
the two right sides together, so the two strips 
form a triangle, and the ends with a straight 
thread come together. Be sure to let the ends 
on both sides extend over the cut edge, the width 
of the seam taken. Join with a fine running 
stitch. 

There is another kind of bias which is called 
the garment bias; so-called when the material 
is not cut on an exact diag- 
onal of the warp and woof 
threads. This bias is used on 
seams in cutting garments, 
to take out the fullness 
around the waist and hips. 

r JOINING BIAS STRIP 

To demonstrate how the 
bias band was cut and used, Annalu made a 
sample, and as it was neither wearable nor orna- 
mental, her mother said they would just call it 
a specimen of her advancement in needle-craft 
and add it to her portfolio. Molly was ill at 
this time, so Annalu took the lesson alone. 

She cut a straight piece of cambric five inches 
square and overcast the raw edges on three 
sides, leaving the fourth side to cut a continuous 




88 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

placket, and also to show how to face the top 
with a bias strip. Next she folded the side of 
the square with the raw edge in half, creased 
and cut half way down the fold from the raw 
edge. Then she cut a straight piece of mate- 
rial twice the length of the slash, and laid the 
raw edges of the straight piece against the cut 
edges of the slash, and stitched all around (as 
in making the placket of her doll's skirt), and 
turned in and hemmed the other raw edges, thus 
making a continuous placket. 

The top, instead of having the straight band, 
was finished with the bias strip. " Cut two 
bias strips one inch deep and three inches long," 
said Mrs. Carter, " and baste to top of both 
sides of the placket, on the right side of the 
material, and sew with a running stitch. Turn 
bias strip to the wrong side, crease down with 
the thumb nail, turn in the raw edge an eighth 
of an inch, baste and sew with a fine hemming 
stitch. On the raw ends of the bias strip turn 
and hem nicely." Annalu smiled slightly. As 
if she didn't always hem " nicely " ! 

After pressing with a warm iron, small holes 
were made in each side at the top with the scis- 
sors, and fastened to the page with brass clips. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 89 

Molly saw the finished product when Annalu 
brought her some candy she made, to cheer her 
up in her illness. And Molly was so disap- 
pointed to be behind even one lesson that 
Annalu went over the next Saturday afternoon 
and taught it to her! 



90 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER X 
THE CLOTHES-PIN BAG 

The problem that faced Annalu, her mother 
and Molly, one bright morning as they were 
seated in Mrs. Carter's sunny sewing room was 
to make a practical household article, costing 
not more than twenty-five cents. In the Ladies' 
Aid, to which Mrs. Carter belonged, when lots 
were drawn to see what each member should 
contribute as her share to the fair to raise a 
fund for missionary work, this was the message 
that greeted the resourceful little woman as it 
came her turn to try her luck. 

They finally decided to make a clothes-pin bag, 
and the decision was made through Annalu's 
suggestion. After several articles were discussed 
and rejected for one reason or another, and even 
a trip to the treasure trunk in the attic had not 
produced any favorable result, the little girl 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 91 

was inspired with the thought of the clothes- 
pin bag as she was taking down some clothes 
from the line and observed how easily she dis- 
posed of the pins in a bag they always used for 
this purpose. Her mother was delighted with 
the idea, especially as this was something her 
little daughter could do for her, and she said it 
could be made a little different from every other 
bag, by decorating it in an unusual way. 

Though practical things are not always beau- 
tiful they can be attractive and sanitary, and 
for this reason the trio of workers decided to 
make the bag of heavy unbleached muslin, which 
launders well. The decoration was of turkey 
red denim, and when the last piece was stitched 
and the tape inserted in the neatly worked but- 
tonholes, at the top, this mother thought she 
had a little girl to be proud of, and though the 
bag would cost so little, the pleasure they had 
in working it out together could not be pur- 
chased for a fortune. The bag was easily made 
according to the following directions. 

Cut a piece of unbleached muslin or any 
coarse material, twenty-four and a half inches 
long, and nineteen and a quarter inches wide; 
divide the piece of material in half, on the cross- 



92 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



wise fold, crease, and run a basting. Use this 
basting as the bottom of the bag. The next 
step is the decoration. 

Take a clothes-pin and lay on a piece of paper 
and draw around it, cut out and use this for a 
pattern. Take the colored piece of material, 
any color that looks well 
with the muslin (Annalu 
used red), pin pattern on 
and cut out four pieces of 
material the shape of the 
pattern. 

In the right hand cor- 
ner, four inches up from 
the basting, and four 
inches in from the side, 
lay one of the colored patterns on the material, 
slanting away from the corner, pin to the mus- 
lin. Take the second piece and lay parallel with 
the first piece, and two inches away towards the 
centre of the bag, and pin. Take the third 
piece, lay at right angles, two inches in* across 
the first and under the second piece, and pin 
down on muslin. Take the last piece and lay 
parallel, two inches away from the third, slip- 
ping one end under the first piece and the other 




THE CLOTHES-PI3ST BAG 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 93 

end over the second piece ; pin down and baste 
all the pieces firmly to the muslin. 

With floss the same color as the cut pieces, 
or any contrasting color, sew to the muslin with 
the buttonhole stitch. Attaching one material 
to another in this way is called applique work. 
The decoration is done before making the bag, 
as it is easier to sew on the flat material. 

To make the bag, fold on the basting thread, 
on the right side close the seams with the 
running stitch, turn to the wrong side and make 
a French seam by back stitching, two running 
stitches, and back stitching again ; do this to 
the end of the seam. 

Turn in raw edges at top of bag one quarter 
of an inch, and turn in again one inch for a 
hem, baste, and with a very firm and strong 
thread hem down with stitches close together. 

On the inside of the hem near the seam make 
a slash, a little larger than the tape, on both 
sides of the bag, but do not cut through both 
thicknesses of the material. Buttonhole for 
the tape to pass through. 

Cut two strips of tape one yard long, with a 
bodkin run the tape through the buttonhole and 
all around the hem of the bag, and bring it out in 



94 



A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



the same place from which it was started. Take 
the other piece of tape and insert in the other 
buttonhole on the opposite side and run all 
around the hem, and bring out in the same place 
from which it was started. Join the ends of tape 
by stitching together, letting the edge of one 
extend farther over the edge of the other, turn 
in the raw edge on the longer end, and hem 
down on the shorter edge. To close the bag 
pull the tapes out in opposite directions and 
this gathers the top in. 

If a more elaborately decorated bag is wanted, 
enough pieces may be cut from the colored mate- 
rial to form letters 
and the word 
"clothes-pins " 
spelled out, or to 
establish ownership, 
the initials of the 
person for whom it 
was made could be 
formed from the colored pieces and buttonholed 
to the bag in any position the fancy might 
direct. 

Another pretty idea is to take flowered cre- 
tonne and cut out the flowers and buttonhole 




HOW TO MAKE INITIALS 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 95 

them to the material. Cretonne used this way, 
makes pretty work bags, laundry bags, or 
stocking bags. Pretty little fancy work bags 
can be made by taking silk and using different 
colors of silk, cut in the shape of leaves, stars, 
and circles and buttonholed to the bag. 



96 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER XI 
THE LADIES' AID FAIR 

The Ladies' Aid fair ran for two afternoons 
and evenings in the big white church which 
stood facing the village green, at the corner 
of the quiet street where Annalu Carter and 
her mother lived. It was held in the church 
parlors, which were very gaily decorated for the 
occasion, with bright pink crepe paper stream- 
ers alternating with green. There were also 
potted plants and palms and ferns to make the 
big room look pretty. 

Each booth was in charge of two ladies, who 
had several little girls to help do up the bundles 
when articles were purchased, to run errands, 
make change and otherwise make themselves use- 
ful. The booth which Annalu's mother had been 
invited to take with Molly's mother, had a big 
sign which read, " Domestic Articles," and on 
the table covered over with more of the crinkly 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 97 

crepe paper were displayed all the pretty things 
which had been contributed by the ladies who 
belonged to the Missionary Society. 

Now it happened that Annalu's clothes-pin 
bag was the only article of its kind at the booth, 
as it seemed no one else had thought to make 
one. Although it was very pretty and certainly 
useful, the afternoon wore on, and while other 
things, not so pretty in the opinion of the in- 
dustrious little girl who made the bag, sold very 
readily, no one seemed to want this clothes-pin 
bag. 

During the sale both Annalu's mother and 
Molly's mother were called away to another 
booth for a moment, and Molly herself, always 
chosen to do the " running " because of her 
fleetness, had gone to the parsonage on an 
errand for the minister's wife. So Annalu was 
all alone, in charge of the booth. 

The room was full of people, all talking and 
laughing at once, it seemed, and the picture of 
the surging crowd, moving about all the time, 
with groups, ever changing, in front of each 
booth, was indeed a gay one. And the people 
"behind the counter" were just as merry and 
happy as the " customers." All except Annalu. 



98 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

So absorbed was she in what seemed the failure 
of her bag to attract a buyer, that she stood at 
her post with a very solemn little face. 

" Oh, I wonder why nobody takes it," she 
said to herself, sadly, as she wrapped up the 
fifth dust cap she had sold since the fair started. 

Just at this moment she looked up and was 
startled to find herself looking into the eyes of 
Mr. Jonathan Morgan Dale! Now you do not 
know, perhaps, who Mr. Jonathan Morgan 
Dale was. But if you were a little girl living 
in Centerville, where Annalu and Molly lived, 
you would know. Oh, dear, yes. For Mr. Jona- 
than Morgan Dale was the richest and most im- 
portant person, not only in the village, but in 
the entire surrounding valley. He was the 
owner of the big mills where most of the men of 
the village worked, and where, indeed, Annalu's 
own dear father had worked in the happy days 
long ago, which she could not remember, when 
she and her mother had not lived alone. 

Mr. Dale lived, all alone, in an enormous 
house at the top of Center Hill. He was called 
" eccentric " and though Annalu did not quite 
know what that word meant, she knew that Mr. 
Dale, though kind and generous, was gruff and 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 99 

likely to speak sharply. " Crotchety " was 
what some of the old ladies in the village called 
him, yet they would always add, " but a better 
man never lived," remembering his many kind- 
nesses to the poor, which he would never be 
thanked for, and about which he would never let 
any one talk to him. 

" Good afternoon, sir," said Annalu politely, 
and somewhat feebly, too, because she was so 
surprised that she almost lost her voice. For 
Mr. Dale never attended such functions. He 
gave money to the Missionary Society whenever 
he was asked, in fact, as one of the ladies on the 
committee said, " It seems a shame to ask Mr. 
Dale — it's like taking advantage, because he 
never refuses." Annalu simply couldn't imagine 
what had brought him to the fair. 

" Good afternoon, little lady," Mr. Dale was 
replying, while these thoughts were running 
through Annalu's head. " And, may I ask, are 
you in charge here? " 

Mr. Dale had a deep gruff voice, which usu- 
ally awed the village people, when he addressed 
them, so much that they lost their wits and 
could not give a sensible answer. But as the 
rich old gentleman, being a little deaf, bent down 



100 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

to catch Annalu's reply, the little girl noticed 
his twinkly eyes, almost hidden under shaggy 
white brows, and there was nothing frightening 
about them at all. Indeed they seemed to be 
dancing with fun, just as Molly's always were, 
when, as her mother put it, she was " up to 
something." 

So Annalu was not at all disturbed at the 
question. " Yes, sir, I am, just at present," 
she answered. And then, becoming very brave, 
she continued, " May I show you something in 
useful domestic articles? " 

Annalu knew, of course, that Mr. Dale's 
beautifully furnished house must be plentifully 
supplied with domestic articles of all kinds, but 
she didn't stop to think of that. It was her 
business to sell her goods, and Mr. Dale must 
want something, or why did he come? 

Mr. Dale began to look over the various arti- 
cles, pushing each aside as he finished examining 
it. " Pretty, very pretty," he would say of 
some, and others he would pass by with 
" U-um-m " as though he had no very high 
opinion of them. 

Annalu had forgotten all about her clothes- 
pin bag, so intent had she been on her opportu- 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 101 

nity of " waiting on " the great Mr. Jonathan 
Morgan Dale. She would never have dared to 
call his attention to her own work. 

But she didn't have to. Attracted by the 
bright red decorations on the bag, perhaps, or 
maybe because it was the only article of its kind 
there, the old gentleman noticed it and took it 
up in his hands. 

" What is this for? " he asked. 

" To> keep the clothes-pins in, when you go 
out to hang up the wash on the line," said 
Annalu, with some excitement, never stopping 
to think that very probably Mr. Dale, never in 
his long and varied life, had had occasion to 
hang up the wash on the line! 

" Indeed," cried the old gentleman, in his 
usual deep voice. You would think, to hear him, 
that he was actually scolding Annalu. " And 
a very good thing, I should say. Mary always 
stuffs hers in her apron pockets, and spills most 
of them before she gets to the line. I never did 
believe in scattering the contents of one's pock- 
ets carelessly," he added, with a quizzical smile 
at Annalu. She was not too excited to realize 
that he was aiming a little joke at himself, for 
though he was generous with good causes he 



102 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

frowned heartily on extravagance, and would 
never, spend his money for foolishness, so that 
he was considered " close " by people who were 
not thrifty, and he never scattered the money in 
his pockets for frivolity. 

While Annalu was wondering what reply she 
would make to his joking remark, she noticed 
that the old gentleman was peering at the tag 
attached to the bag, on which the price was 
marked. 

" It costs twenty-five cents, sir," said Annalu, 
her cheeks very red. She was just as embar- 
rassed as though old Mr. Dale knew who had 
made the bag. Then gathering all her courage 
she said, " Perhaps Mary wouldn't scatter the 
contents of her pockets if she had a bag like 
that." 

" Upon, my soul, little lady," Mr. Dale re- 
turned, " I think you would like to sell the 
article to me." And he laughed heartily, as 
though it were a great joke that Annalu, sales- 
woman at the domestic booth, should want to sell 
him something ! " Perhaps your mother made 
it," he added, smiling. 

Poor Annalu turned very, very red. It 
seemed as though she must tell him that she 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 103 

made the bag, and she didn't want to at all. 

The old gentleman, noticing the little girl's 
confusion, but not guessing, of course, the cause 
of it, thought he would tease her a bit more, so 
he said: 

" But perhaps your mother didn't make it. 
Perhaps you made it yourself ! " and laughed 
louder than ever at what he thought was a great 
joke. 

" I did, sir," said Annalu, very faintly. 

"What's that, what's that you say?" cried 
the old gentleman. 

" I said ' I did, sir, ' " repeated Annalu, still 
more faintly. 

" Well, upon my soul," roared the old gentle- 
man. " Upon my soul " was his favorite ex- 
pression and he always roared when he was ex- 
cited. " Upon my soul, I didn't know they 
taught youngsters such sensible things, nowa- 
days." Like many old gentlemen, Mr. Dale had 
the impression that little boys and girls were not 
brought up properly at all since he had been a 
little boy. 

He examined the bag very carefully. " Who 
taught you how to sew? " he asked. 

" My mother," replied Annalu. 



104 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

" Um-m," said Mr. Dale. " Sensible woman, 
very sensible woman. This bag is finely made." 
Annalu thought at first that a rich old gentle- 
man wouldn't know whether a bag was finely 
made or not, but in his younger days Mr. Dale 
had not been rich and no doubt his own mother 
had made clothes-pin bags. 

" I will take it for Mary," he said, referring 
to his housekeeper, who scattered the clothes- 
pins from her apron pocket. And he handed 
Annalu a crisp new ten dollar bill. 

Annalu' s delight at having sold the bag to 
such an important man faded a bit, and she 
said: 

" Oh, thank you, Mr. Dale, but I'm afraid you 
will have to wait while I get your change. I 
haven't got enough money to* change such a 
big bill." 

Mr. Dale glared at Annalu. " No change, 
no change, no change," he said, testily. He 
was always testy when caught in a generous 
deed. " Keep the money, and give it to the 
Missionary Society." 

And stuffing the bag in the pocket of his big 
coat, he stamped quickly out of the room. 
Annalu had had no time to offer to do up the 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 105 

bundle. She hadn't even had time to say 
" Thank you," so quickly did he disappear. 

Annalu's mother and Molly's mother, return- 
ing from the other booth, came upon Annalu 
standing stock still, her mouth open and clutch- 
ing the ten dollar bill tightly in her fist. Her 
eyes were wide open and they were shining 
with pleasure. 

" Good gracious, Annalu," said Mrs. Carter, 
curiously, " what ever are you doing? I de- 
clare, you look as if you had found that bill and 
feared somebody was going to take it away from 
you." 

" Well," said Annalu with a little giggle 
which she could not keep back, " I as good as 
found it." And she told the two astonished 
ladies the whole story. 

" Jonathan Morgan Dale paid ten dollars for 
something he could have bought for twenty-five 
cents? " demanded Mrs. Jones, who was one of 
those who didn't know the old gentleman, and 
thought him stingy. " If I didn't see the money 
with my own eyes I'd never believe it." 

Mrs. Carter smiled gently. She was very 
proud of Annalu and she didn't want to show it 
too much. " I'd take the money to the minister, 



106 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

dear," she said, " and tell him how you got it." 

Annalu did. Rev. Mr. Berry was no less sur- 
prised than delighted when he heard that Mr. 
Dale had attended a fair held in his church, and 
he complimented Annalu very heartily on the 
skill in sewing which had attracted the attention 
of the town's chief citizen, and led to so wel- 
come a gift for the Missionary Society. 

Annalu was very proud and happy as she 
walked home with her mother from the fair. 

" Do you always have such fun out of know- 
ing how to do things ? " she asked her mother. 

" Well," said Mrs. Carter, a bit puzzled, " I 
can't say that every accomplishment will bring 
a ten dollar bill so easily, but I can safely prom- 
ise you that you will be the better off for every 
bit of useful knowledge you obtain. 6 Knowl- 
edge is power,' you know, according to the old 
saying." 

Annalu laughed happily as she skipped ahead, 
and opened the gate for her mother. " It cer- 
tainly was to-night, mamma," she said. " It was 
ten whole dollars worth of power." 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 107 



CHAPTER XII 
THE CARD TABLE COVER 

Annalu had a dear friend in a lady across 
the way. She had known her as long as the 
little girl could remember, and had been in the 
habit of spending some of her play time in the 
quiet street where they both lived. Many times 
she had been invited into Miss Jasper's large, 
cool, drawing-room and sat entranced while 
this friend played and sang some pretty little 
song for her. Or, perhaps, another day they 
would wander out in the flower garden, and 
gather a beautiful bouquet of roses or peonies 
for Annalu to carry to her mother. Beside ac- 
companying her on delightful drives in a stately 
equipage, Annalu had memories of frequent 
gifts of oranges and cookies generously be- 
stowed by Miss Jasper's black cook, who ruled 
in the kitchen of her comfortable home. 



\ 



108 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

It was at this period of advancement in sew- 
ing that Annalu became imbued with the idea of 
showing her appreciation of these many kind- 
nesses. Mrs. Carter was frequently distracted 
from her absorption in her work, by her little 
daughter imploring her to say what would be 
" nice " to make for kind Miss Jasper. The 
question was finally settled on one of their trips 
to a large store, where they often shopped. 
From the many beautiful and elaborate articles, 
displayed in the Art Department, the more 
practical card table cover was selected to be 
this gift of love and gratitude. 

From a yard of tan colored linen, two and 
one quarter yards of red tape, together with 
some red and black floss, Annalu's mother 
showed her little girl how to make this useful 
article. Molly, having no use for such an 
article, did not join them when it was being 
made. 

Following are the directions for making it: 
Cut the linen thirty-one inches square. Turn 
up the raw edges an eighth of an inch, and 
turn up two inches again for a hem, crease, but 
do not baste yet, for the corners are mitred. 

To mitre the corners, make a line on all four 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



109 



sides where the top of the hem is to come : run 
a basting around this line. Open out the creased 
folds of the hems, and fold the material, on the 
right side, on a diagonal, from corner to corner. 
Take the point of the diagonal and turn it in 
until it reaches the line of basting; crease and 
make a running stitch 
along the crease. Cut 
away the point, leav- 
ing a small edge from 
the seam, turn the 
seam to the wrong 
side, and a neatly 
turned corner is made. 
Do the other end of 
the diagonal the same 
way. Fold the other 
two corners in the 

same way, and mitre the corners the same as the 
first one. After the corners are all mitred, and 
turned to the right side, baste in the two-inch 
hem on the creased line, and hem with a fine 
stitch. If the directions are followed carefully, 
there will be a small diagonal seam running from 
where the two hems meet, to the outer point of 
the hem. 



\ 




7 








^ 


• * 

-1 4- 


\ 



Black lines indicate creases for 
folding and mitred corners. 
Dotted lines indicate basting. 



110 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 




MITRED CORNER 



On a piece of paper draw a heart, a spade, a 

club, and a diamond about four inches high, 

using a playing card to get the proper shape. 

Next, by laying a piece of carbon paper on one 

corner of the cover, and the 

design of the heart on top 

of this, trace, and then take 

the next corner, and in the 

same way trace the spade, 

in the third corner the club, 

and in the fourth corner the 

diamond. 

The next step is to out- 
line the heart and diamond with red floss, and 
the spade and club with black floss. The out- 
lining can be done in two ways. The first way 
is the plain outline stitch. The outline stitch 
is worked from left to right. 

Take two running stitches toward the left 
on the outline, to fasten the thread, bring the 
needle up to the left of the line, close to it; 
take a stitch toward the left and let the thread 
fall below the line, take a stitch twice the length 
of the first stitch and bring the needle out in 
the same hole as the last thread. Next take 
another short stitch to the left on the same side 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 111 

of the line, then take a stitch twice as long. 
This makes a long stitch on the right side, and 
a short stitch on the wrong side. The right 
side of the outline stitch looks just like the 
wrong side of the back stitch. Fasten the end 
of the thread on the wrong side of the work by 
taking two or three little stitches in the stitches 
already made. 

The second way is with the chain stitch, 
which is more decorative. The chain stitch 
is always worked towards the body. 

Take three running stitches as in 
the outline stitch, bring needle out 
at top of line, holding the floss 
in place with the thumb of left hand ; 
put needle through the same hole 
out of which it just came, bring it 
out a short distance down the out- stitch 
line, keeping the floss under the 
needle, draw the thread through and let go of 
the floss with the thumb. This makes a loop on 
the right side of the material, held down by the 
last stitch taken. Continue this way until the 
outline is covered. 

Take red or black tape and cut pieces ten 
inches long, and overhand a piece on each side, 




112 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

four inches from the corner, on the under side of 
the cover. These tapes are used to tie the cover 
to the legs of the table, to keep it from slipping. 
Annalu applied herself diligently in develop- 
ing the useful gift, and when the last stitch was 
taken, and the cover nicely pressed and folded, 



£, 



o 



i?_. 



5% 



1 



a 



% 



THE FINISHED COVER 



it was with a sweetly smiling face and a happy 
little heart she carried the gift to her friend. 

Miss Jasper was sitting on her porch as 
Annalu approached with the package with the 
card table cover. She was a sweet-faced 
woman, with hair just beginning to turn gray, 
and she always had a pleasant smile for the little 
girls of the neighborhood, probably because 
there were no little girls in her house. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 113 

For all they were such good comrades Annalu 
was a little bit shy about presenting the gift to 
Miss Jasper. But she wanted to have the thing 
done, so as soon as they had exchanged greet- 
ings she held out the bundle to her friend, say- 
ing, " Something I made for you, Miss Jasper." 

" You made something for me," replied the 
astonished lady. " Well, well, Annalu, I knew 
you were a bright little girl, but I never knew 
before that you could make things." Miss 
Jasper was perhaps the only person in town 
who hadn't heard about Annalu's experience at 
the fair, and truth to tell, Annalu was glad of 
it, because, being anything but what is called a 
" forward " little girl, she didn't like being 
pointed out as the child who sold something to 
Mr. Dale at the Ladies' Aid fair. 

However, Annalu said nothing as Miss Jasper 
untied the bundle, and exclaimed over the pretty 
card table cover. 

" Really, Annalu," she said, " you could 
hardly have hit upon a gift to please me more. 
I am going to give a card party Saturday 
week, and only this morning I was wondering 
if one of my tables wasn't too shabby for use. 
This cover will be most useful. And it is so 



114 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

pretty ! Perhaps you and Molly can come over 
after the party and have tea with me ; then you 
can see how well I can use your gift." 

When Annalu reached home and told her 
mother of the invitation Mrs. Carter laughed 
and said: 

" Well, Annalu, when we started out to teach 
a little girl sewing, we never suspected all the 
good times it would bring, did we ? " 

But neither Annalu nor her mother even 
dreamed of the climax that was coming in the 
way of a " good time " and also of a great op- 
portunity for the little seamstress. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 115 



CHAPTER XIII 
DOLL'S PANTIES 

When Mrs. Carter cleared the table of the 
sewing materials and spread a sheet of paper 
down, Annalu knew there was some drafting to 
be done. As this little girl had always been of an 
inquisitive turn of mind, she had learned 
through her questioning that with the aid of 
a chart, which always hung on a certain nail, 
any pattern could be drawn out on paper, by 
following certain directions. When this chart 
had been turned over and over again in her 
little hands, the only impression that remained 
with her was of a piece of cardboard with curves 
and figures and lines, and indented with round 
holes and long slashes. 

But, her mother would lay this same piece 
of cardboard on the clean white paper, and 
draw a line down to this curve and possibly 
connect another point with a straight line, while 



116 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

frequently consulting figures written in a note 
book, and after a time a pattern for a sleeve 
or a waist or perhaps a skirt would be the 
result. Annalu wondered when she would be 
able to follow all these directions. 

The fond mother must have understood her 
little daughter's desire to work some patterns 
for herself, as she proposed that Annalu make 
a few simple ones, using her dolly as a model. 
Of course the chart could not be used as that 
would be too complicated for a little girl, but 
from Mrs. Carter's experience in sewing she 
knew just what measurements to take to get 
the important lines for the pattern. 

The panties, a very simple garment, were 
taken at first, as these had not so many measure- 
ments to bother, and the lines and curves were 
easy to make. 

So Annalu's dolly was provided with a new 
undergarment, measured, drafted, cut, and put 
together by the deft fingers of the dolly's in- 
dustrious little mistress. 

The mother made the directions so clear that 
any one could follow them and be as successful 
as Annalu in cutting and sewing attractive gar- 
ments for a doll. Here are the rules : 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 117 

To take the measurements, pin a piece of 
tape around the waist of the doll. This will be 
the waist line. 

Take a piece of paper nine inches long and 
six inches wide. Mark on the straight edge, 
starting from the lower left hand corner, the 
length of the outside of the doll's leg, from the 
knee to the waist line. Call the lower corner 1 
and the top of the measurement 2. This is the 
line for the outside of the leg. 

From 1 mark across the lower edge of the 
paper, half the doll's width around the leg, 
adding one inch to this measurement to pro- 
vide for fullness and the seam. Make this 
point 3. 

From point 3 measure up in a straight line 
in the back, the doll's length from the waist 
line to the knee, when she is bent in sitting. 
Mark this point 4. Connect points 4 and 2 with 
a line curving slightly inward. 

Make a dot half way between 1 and % and 
measure in a horizontal line toward the right, 
one third the distance dolly is around the widest 
part of her hips. Mark this point 5. Connect 
4 and 5 with a slanting line. Connect 3 and 5 
with a line slightly curved inward. This is the 



118 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



inside of the leg. All these lines drawn in with 
pencil form the outline for the pattern. With 
scissors cut out the pattern on these lines. 
Then cut a straight piece of paper one and one 
quarter inches wide, and one half the length 
of the waist measurement, allowing 
three quarters of an inch for seams 
and lapping. This makes the pattern 
for the band. 

To cut the panties from the mate- 
rial take a piece of longcloth twice 
the length of the pattern, and fold 
on the lengthwise of the material. 
Lay the pattern with the straight 
edge between 1 and % on the fold of 
the material, pin down smoothly and 
cut all around the pattern, allow- 
ing one quarter of an inch for seams. This 
cuts one leg. 

Unpin the pattern and lay again on the fold, 
pin and cut. This gives the other leg. Lay 
the pattern for the band on two thicknesses of 
material and cut out. This gives pieces for 
front and back band. When finished cutting 
there are the two legs and the front and back 
band to be put together. 




FOR A LITTLE GIRL 119 

In joining, care must be taken to get both 
legs joined on the right side of the material first. 
The curved seams on the inside of the leg should 
be joined first, by basting together on the right 
side, and then sewing with a running stitch. 
Trim the seam close to the stitching and turn 
to the wrong side. Enclose the raw edge in a 
French seam with the stitching stitch. Close 
the seam on the other leg in the same way. 

Join the two* legs together by putting the two 
curved seams opposite each other, baste together 
on the right side and sew with a running stitch. 
Turn to the wrong side and cover the raw edge 
with a French seam. 

Measure the doll from the inside of the leg 
to the waist line, then measure up on the panties 
from the bottom of the inside of the leg this 
distance, and put a pin at this point. Measure 
on the leg the same way and pin. Cut off the 
material from the top down to the pins, sloping 
off at the sides. This is for the front of the 
panties, which should be shorter than the back. 

On the outside of the leg on the straight of 
the fold, slash down the fold a third of the 
length of the leg for a placket; do likewise on 
the other leg. 



120 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



To finish the raw edges of the slash make a 
placket as follows : 

Cut four strips of material an inch longer 
than the slash, and one inch wide. On the two 
front sides of the panties baste the raw edge of 
one side of a straight strip to the wrong side of 
the slash and sew with a running stitch. Turn in 
the other raw edge of the straight strip, then 
baste down and hem to the stitching just made. 
At the bottom of the slash cut off the mate- 
rial from the straight strip longer than the 
slash, leaving an eighth of 
an inch to fold in the raw 
edges on the bottom. Over- 
hand the folded-in ends at 
the bottom of the strip. 
This extended fold forms 
the under side of the placket. 
To finish the other side of 
the placket, do the same as on the front, but in 
finishing the bottom, instead of cutting off 
square, let the folded straight strip extend down 
on the panties below the slash, cut in a point 
and fold in raw edges. Then baste, hem down 
to the panties and up the turned-in side to where 
the underlap stops. Turn placket on the wrong 




THE PLACKET 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



121 



side and stitch the straight end of underlap to 
upper strip. This makes a nice flat placket. 
Gather the front and back of the panties 




THE ROLLED HEM 



and put each on a separate band. The bands 
are put on in the same way as the band on the 
petticoat. 




WHIPPING OK LACE 



Sew a button on each end of the front band, 
and work a buttonhole in each end of the back 
band. 



122 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

Finish the bottom of the panties by rolling 
the hem and whipping on lace at the same time. 
This seems rather hard at first but with a little 
practice can be easily done. 

Start the rolled hem first by holding the raw 
edge over the first finger of the left hand, and 
with the thumb roll the edge under on the wrong 
side, covering up the raw threads. 

Hold the lace right against this rolled edge, 
and sew both together by putting the needle in 
under the rolled edge and bringing it out so 
that it will just catch the edge of the lace. 
Leave a short end of the lace for joining the 
ends after the leg has been hemmed. To sew 
the lace on hold the lace a little loose against 
the rolled edge. Be careful in taking the 
stitches not to pucker them, lest this gather 
in the bottom of the legs. 

This finishes a nice garment for dolly. In 
making these panties Annalu had learned 
something about taking measurements, draft- 
ing and cutting a pattern, besides learning 
how to make a rolled hem and whip on lace, 
a big step in her advancement, and all of 
this, too, without a good fairy coming to her 
assistance. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



123 



Molly, of course, had made a similar pair 
for her dolly and Mrs. Jones was so pleased that 
she had Molly make another 
pair, only larger, for the smaller 
Jones girl, who was hardly 
bigger than a good-sized doll. 

Annalu thought that half the 
fun of sewing was to watch Mrs. 
Jones' delight whenever the for- 
merly untidy Molly turned out 




THE FINISHED 
PANTIES 



a neat garment. 



124 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER XIV 
THE DOLL'S CHEMISE 

Annalu was very much encouraged with her 
success in making her first panties. Her mother 
discovered in their intimate conversation that 
the little girl had set her heart on seeing her 
dolly attired in other garments, especially de- 
signed and made for her. 

Just what the next venture should be was a 
question of some moment for both of them. 
Quite a little time was spent by Annalu and 
Molly in scanning the fashion journals for 
ideas, and very frequently Mrs. Carter was ques- 
tioned as to whether they could draft this pat- 
tern or if that dress would be easy to make. 
But in turning over some materials laid aside 
for future use, a fine piece of lawn was brought 
forth and selected to adorn Miss Dolly in the 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 125 

guise of a chemise. And such a chemise it was 
to be! One that slips on over the head and 
closes with little straps on the shoulders, with 
the finest of lace whipped around the neck, and 
wonder of wonders, a really truly hemstitched 
ruffle for the bottom! Doesn't this sound fine 
enough for any dolly, no matter how splendid 
she is? 

So, humming a gay little tune, Annalu seats 
herself at her table, with Molly opposite her, 
and with dolly close by, begins the pleasing task 
of working out this pattern with her mother. In 
their hours together this mother and child had 
formed the habit of singing all the bright little 
songs they knew, and they learned many new 
ones from Molly, who had a sweet little voice. 
This must have been the reason that all the 
hard places were gotten over so cheerfully, 
without any fits of temper or loss of patience. 

One little song in particular, called " Try, 
Oh! Try," always pleased Annalu, and things 
went along more smoothly after they had sung 
the verses, which told of all the difficulties being 
straightened out by learning to " Try, Oh ! 
Try." 

As the chemise is cut in one length a larger 



126 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

piece of paper will have to be used on which to 
draw the patterns. Suppose dolly is eighteen 
inches high, a piece of paper at least twelve 
inches square will be needed. 

Starting in the lower left hand corner, meas- 
ure up on the straight edge the length dolly 
is from the shoulder to the bottom of the skirt. 
The bottom of the skirt should come to the 
knees. Make a point; mark the corner A, and 
the point B. From B measure down and make 
a dot the distance from shoulder to one half 
inch below where the arms j oin the body. From 
this point draw a horizontal line out, the width 
dolly is from the middle of her chest to under 
her arms. Add a half inch to this line, and mark 
the end of line C. 

Measure dolly's size across the front, from 
one side of the hips to the other. From the 
corner, A, measure along the bottom edge of 
the paper three quarters this distance and make 
a point. One quarter of an inch above this 
point make another point and mark it D. 

Connect C and D with a line slightly curved 
inward. 

Connect corner A with point D by a curved 
line. This takes the sharp point away from D. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 127 

From point B measure down dolly's length 
from shoulder to the top of the chest. Make a 
point and mark it E. 

Make a point in a horizontal line from point 
B, the width dolly is from the middle of her 
neck to the middle of her shoulder. Mark this 
point F. 

Measure the top of the shoulder, using one 
third the width of shoulder for the width of the 
strap. 

Connect points E and F for neck, curving the 
line in, and add a little round tongue for lapping 
on the shoulder. 

Curve the armhole in from point C till it 
meets the round tongue at point F. 

This gives a pattern for one half the front. 

The back is drafted in the same way. Start 
from the lower left hand corner of a straight 
piece of paper, measure from shoulder down to 
where the bottom of the skirt is to come, mark 
corner G, and the top of this measurement on 
the straight edge, point H. 

Measure, from point H down, dolly's length 
from back of shoulder to one half inch below 
where the arms join the body. Make a point 
and draw a horizontal line the length dolly is 



128 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

from middle of back to under the arm. Allow 
a half inch to this line, and mark the end J. 

Next measure dolly's width across the back 
from one side of the hips to the other. From 
the corner G measure a little less than three 
quarters this width, make a point. One quarter 
of an inch above this point make another point; 
mark it K. Connect G and K with a line 
slightly curved outward. 

From point H make a point in a horizontal line 
the width of the doll from middle of back of neck 
to the middle of the shoulder. Mark point L. 

From point H mark down the length dolly is 
from the shoulder to a little below the back of 
her neck. Mark this point M. 

Make a horizontal line the width of the strap 
in front, letting the middle of the line come at 
point L. Join points L and M for the neck line 
in the back. 

Curve the armhole in from point J to the 
end of line at point L. This gives the pattern 
for half the back of the chemise. 

Cut out the pattern for the front on lines 
E and F, F and C, C and D, and B and A. 
For the back cut out on lines connecting M 
and L, L and J, J and K, and K and G. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



129 



With the pattern cut from the paper the 

next step is to cut out the chemise from the 

lawn. Molly, eager little soul that she was, 

thought they had already completed a big task, 

but Annalu, industrious 

as ever, only said, 

" Nonsense, Molly, the 

interesting part is just 

beginning." 

These are the direc- 
tions : 

For the front lay the 
straight edge A and E 
on the lengthwise fold 
of the material, and the 
back G and M on the 
lengthwise fold of the 
material. Pin and cut 
around the pattern. If 
a ruffle is used, take off 
the width of the ruffle 
from the bottom of the 
pattern, front and back. 

To cut ruffle, measure around the bottom of 
the skirt, and make the ruffle once and a half 
times as large as the bottom of the skirt. Draw 




PATTERN TOR CHEMISE 



130 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

a thread across the material to get a straight 
edge. Measure the depth of ruffle, allowing 
three quarters of an inch hem; draw a thread, 
and cut right on the line of the thread drawn. 

As this ruffle is to be hemstitched it is better 
to do that first, so as to have it ready when the 
chemise is put together. Hemstitching makes 
a pretty trimming for the bottom of a ruffle. 

To prepare the hem, measure up three quar- 
ters of an inch on pieces cut for ruffle, and draw 
a thread along the length of piece, being care- 
ful not to pull the cross threads. Then draw 
three other threads above the first one drawn. 
If there is more than one piece used in the ruffle, 
draw threads in all the pieces and join them in 
a ring, being sure that the space between the 
drawn spaces meet in each piece and that the 
edges are even. 

Turn up raw edge an eighth of an inch, then 
turn up hem and baste the folded edge just at the 
bottom of the drawn thread. The side on 
which the hem is turned up is the wrong side, 
the same as in hemming. With a fine needle and 
number seventy cotton, making a small knot 
in the end of the thread, start on the right hand 
side, and put the knot under the edge of the hem 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



131 



so that it does not show. Point the needle 
towards the body, holding the thread under the 
left thumb, pass under four or five cross threads, 
and draw the needle through and over the thread 
held down by the thumb of the left hand. Draw 
the thread tight enough to hold the cross 
threads firmly, insert the needle under the edge 
of the hem only, and take an ordinary hem- 
ming stitch, half way between the group of 
threads. 

Count four threads again and continue as be- 




HEMSTITCHING 



fore, until the ruffle is hemmed. Be careful to 
take the same number of threads each time, as 
this makes the work look uniform. Fold up this 
prepared ruffle until ready to use. 

To make the chemise, open out the front and 
back pieces and lay the raw edges under the 
arms together; then baste, starting from the 



132 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

armholes, and let any unevenness come at the 
bottom, which can be trimmed off. Sew with a 
running stitch, trim off seams close to the stitch- 
ings, take out bastings, turn to the wrong side 
and cover raw edges by a French seam. 

Cut enough bias strips to go around the arm- 
holes and neck. Start from under arm seams, 
lay raw edge of bias strip on the right side of 
the raw edge of the chemise, and sew together 
with a running stitch around the arm, across 
the back, around the other arm, and across the 
front. Join under the arm at point of start- 
ing. 

Turn bias strip to the wrong side, fold in 
the raw edge and baste, then hem with a fine 
stitch. 

To finish the neck and arms lay some fine lace 
against the right side of the bias facing, and 
with a fine thread whip the two edges together. 
Hold the lace next to the body and ease it on 
to the strip by slightly pushing it towards the 
needle with the thumb. 

Sew a button on the back of the shoulder 
strap and work a buttonhole on the front lap 
to fasten the chemise. 

Trim the bottom of skirt of any unevenness, 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 133 

and divide into four equal parts, marking with 
pins. 

Divide the ruffle into four parts and run two 
gathering threads around the top of ruffle. 
Lay the wrong side of ruffle against the wrong 
side of chemise, letting the gathered edge of 
ruffle come against the raw edge of the bottom 
of the chemise. See that the joining of the 
ruffle comes in the middle of the back of the 
chemise. Put the quarter divisions of the ruffle 
against the quarter divisions of the chemise, 
arrange the gathers evenly, and baste the edges 
together. 

Cut a bias strip a little wider than the strip 
used on the neck and armholes. Lay the raw 
edge of one side of the strip against the gath- 
ered edges, and sew, with a running stitch, a 
narrow seam all around the bottom of the skirt. 
Turn in the raw edge of the bias strip and baste 
down on the skirt, and hem all around. This 
finishes the chemise. 

To make it more elaborate lace could be 
whipped on the hemstitched edge of the ruffle. 

After the chemise was pressed and both dolls, 
Molly's and Annalu's, stood up to display the 
success of the measuring, drafting, and stitch- 



134 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



ing, this garment had to be called a perfect fit, 
as it was just right in the neck and armholes, 
and the skirt the proper length without any 
alterations to be made. 

If Annalu and Molly were making such a 
garment for themselves, they would go about 
it in the same way, only per- 
haps using a pattern pur- 
chased in the store. 

Annalu, however, was at the 
age when it is more fun to 
make clothes for a doll. Her 
doll had a pretty red dress 
which the little girl usually put 
on whenever she had the doll 
propped up in the window. 
Some time after Molly had 
taken her things and departed Mrs. Carter, 
who was alone in the room, noticed that the 
curtain bulged inward as it did when the doll 
was there. But she could see no red through 
the white lawn curtains, so she went over to 
find out what object it could be in the doll's 
usual place on the window-sill. 

And, sure enough, it was Annalu's doll, but 
instead of the red dress, she was attired in her 




THE FINISHED 
CHEMISE 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 135 

new panties and chemise! For what were the 
attractions of a red dress compared to a brand 
new crisp white chemise, made by the proud 
little owner of the doll herself! 



136 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER XV 
THE KIMONO DRESS 

When Annalu was given a remnant from a 
pretty pink dress of her own, which she was very 
fond of wearing, she knew if there was enough 
material, Miss Dolly would have a new dress. 
So Miss Dolly was bidden to sit quite still in her 
chair by her busy mamma until this question 
was determined. 

Annalu's success in taking measurements and 
cutting patterns had aroused fresh interest to 
try something else, and to be able to cut and 
make things gave her a feeling of self-confi- 
dence, in a modest way that there was nothing 
too hard for her to try. Her mother had said 
what she failed in to-day, she would probably 
succeed in to-morrow, and each new thing they 
tried was like taking a journey, — every step 
successfully taken meant that the end would be 
reached so much sooner. 

After dolly had been turned this way and 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 137 

that way, sometimes lying on her back and 
sometimes on her face (and very often the 
occupied mother forgot and let poor dolly hang 
for a long time head downward), it was de- 
cided a dress could be made. Molly, of course, 
went straight home and got some material to 
make her own dress, for the little girls still did 
everything together. 

The next question was the style. The mate- 
rial and the occasion for which it was intended 
would decide this, because, as mother had ex- 
plained, it is the duty of every girl and woman 
to wear a becoming frock, and to be dressed for 
the occasion. 

" Dressed for the occasion " means a dress 
in keeping with the surroundings, — an evening 
gown worn on a shopping tour would have all 
its beauty lost, as it is intended for bright lights 
and music, and dainty surroundings. And a 
morning dress of cotton, or a tailored dress of 
cloth, would be very smart for street wear, pro- 
viding they are well made. As this material 
was of pink chambray, the dress would be of 
simple lines, like one worn by a little girl to 
school, or when she went out to play. 

One of the prettiest and most graceful dresses 



138 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

of this type is the kimono dress, in which the 
skirt and waist are in one piece, giving an easy 
flowing air to the figure instead of cutting it 
up in sections with a waist and skirt. Its very 
simplicity is what makes it attractive, and to 
look well it must fit perfectly, which means a 
pattern must be drafted for dolly's own figure. 
And before a pattern can be drafted the meas- 
urements must be taken. 

As there are a number of measurements to 
think about it is a good idea to have a little 
note book and write them down as they are 
taken, being particular to say what each meas- 
urement is for. 

As the dress is in one piece the pattern will 
have to be cut in one piece, therefore a good 
sized piece of paper will be needed to draft on. 

The first step is to see how long dolly is from 
a little below her knees in front up over the 
shoulder, and down the back the same distance 
as in front. This will give the length of the 
dress, front and back. Mark this distance on 
the piece of paper, starting from the lower left 
hand corner. Use the straight edge of the 
paper, for the middle of the front and back. 
Let this corner be point A. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



139 



Mark from A the length of dress from bot- 
tom of front to bottom of back, on the straight 
edge of the paper. Making this point B. 

Measure dolly from middle of one hip, across 
the front to the middle of the other hip, mark 



II?. * 


\ T 


C0| 


i -- 




L:....zzzz:::::zc:z::z:~:z:::- 


« X -" - t! •«• ,. ( ,\r ^ '" 





PATTERN FOR KIMONO DRESS 

from point A on the horizontal edge, three 
quarters this distance, make this point C. 

Measure dolly from the middle of one hip 
across the back, to the middle of the other hip. 
From point B, draw a horizontal line three quar- 
ters this distance. Make the end of this line 
point D. 

From the point to which the bottom of the 
skirt is to come in front, measure up to dolly's 
chin. Mark this length up from point A on 
the straight edge. Call this point E. 

From where the bottom of the skirt is to end 
in the back, measure up to where dolly's neck 
joins the body in the back; mark this distance 



140 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

from point B down on the straight edge towards 
point E; call this point F. Draw horizontal 
lines from points E and F, half the distance be- 
tween E and F, join these two lines. This 
makes the opening for the neck. 

Divide the distance between A and B in 
half and make a point. Extend a horizontal 
line from this point the length dolly is from 
the middle of her neck, across her shoulder, and 
a little below the elbow. This gives the length 
of the shoulder and sleeve. Mark this point J. 

From the top of dolly's shoulder measure 
down to a little below where the arm joins the 
body. In a vertical line extend this distance, 
above and below point J. This gives the width 
of the sleeve. Mark the ends of the vertical 
lines K and L. 

Measure the length of dolly's arm from a little 
below the elbow to where it joins the body 
underneath. This gives the length of the under 
arm. Draw horizontal lines towards the centre 
at points K and L, the distance just meas- 
ured. Mark the ends of the lines M and N. 

Measure how long dolly is under the arm to 
below the knee where the bottom of the dress is 
to come. Measure this distance from point N 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 141 

towards point C, and make a point directly over 
C. Connect this point with point N, and at 
point N slightly curve the line instead of making 
a sharp corner. 

Mark the same distance from point M towards 
point D, and make a point directly over D. 
Connect this point with point M and curve the 
same as at point N. This gives the line for the 
under arm seam in the back. 

Connect point A with the point above C for 
the bottom of the front, and B with the point 
above D for the bottom of the back, using 
slightly curved lines. 

With these points all connected one half 
of the pattern is given. Cut out the pattern in 
one piece around the bottom, under the arm, 
around the sleeves, and the square for the neck. 

This pattern is cut for just a plain dress, but 
Annalu had three box plaits in the doll's dress, 
one in the centre of the front and back, and one 
on each shoulder, running from front to back. 

Box plaits are like tucks, only after they are 
stitched in they are opened out flat on the 
stitching. 

Lay the pattern on the length of the material 
to see how long a piece to cut off, and be sure 



142 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

and allow for the hem, the same distance both 
front and back. 

After cutting off, fold the material in the 
centre, and let this fold be the centre of the 
box plait. For an inch box plait, measure in 
one inch from the fold, baste the plait in first, 
from one end to the other end of the material. 
For the plaits on the shoulder measure from the 
fold of the centre plait four inches, and fold 
and baste the entire length of the material. 
Before opening out the plaits, lay the pattern 
on the material so the straight edge of A 
and B come exactly on the line of stitching of 
the middle plait. Pin pattern down to the 
material, and cut out. 

Before the basting can be pulled out make 
the plaits secure by sewing, with a back stitch 
or a stitching stitch. Sew the plaits from the 
neck down to the waist line, take out the bast- 
ings, and open out the plaits and baste down 
flat on the dress. These last bastings remain in 
until the dress is finished. Baste up the under 
arm seams on the right side. 

On the left hand side under the middle plait, 
make a slash from the neck to the waist line. 
This will be for the opening in the back. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 143 

Try the dress on dolly before sewing, to see 
if it fits all right. 

Turn the under arm seam to the wrong side 
and finish with a French seam. 

Turn up the hem around the bottom, baste 
and hem. 

To finish the opening in the back, cut two 
pieces of material one inch wide and the length 
of the slash. On the left hand side stitch the 
raw edge of one of the strips to the raw edge 
of the opening ; fold the strip over the stitching 
and hem. This is to sew the buttons on. 

On the buttonhole side sew a straight strip of 
material against the raw edge of the opening of 
the right side. Turn to the wrong side on the 
line of stitching, and baste down. 

Cu;t a strip one and one half inches wide, and 
as long as the other two strips, and fold in half. 
Lay the raw edge of the folded strip against 
the raw edge of the turned-in strip and baste 
together. Fold the three edges in one quarter 
of an inch and baste to the dress and hem down. 
This gives an under facing to work the button- 
holes in. Make about three buttonholes and 
sew on buttons to close the dress. 

To finish the bottom of the placket fold the 



1U A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

right side over the extended fold of the left side ; 
turn the edges in at the bottom and overhand 
together. This, of course, is on the wrong side 
of the dress. 

Finish the neck and sleeves with a narrow 
insertion. Turn the raw edges in one eighth 
of an inch on the right side and baste. In the 
neck start the insertion from the right side of 
the opening, turn under the end, and baste the 
edge of the insertion along the folded-in edge 
of the neck. When the square corner is reached 
lap under enough of the insertion to form a 
sharp point in the lower edge. 

Overhand the edges together and sew the 
lower edge of insertion to the dress with a run- 
ning stitch. 

Finish the bottom of the sleeves in the same 
way. 

For the belt cut a piece of material two inches 
wide, and as long as dolly is around the waist, 
allowing an inch for lapping. Turn in the raw 
edges all around and fold the strip in half, and 
baste the folded edges together. Sew around 
the folded edges with a running stitch. 

Fasten the belt with a button and a button- 
hole. Instead of making an ordinary button- 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



145 



hole in the belt make a bound buttonhole in the 
following way. 

Baste a bias piece of material in the form of 
a rectangle, on the right side of the belt, just 




m 



iAi 




DIFFERENT STEPS IN MAKING THE BOUND BUTTONHOLE 

where the buttonhole is to be, and mark the 
centre line in the buttonhole. Run a basting 
around the rectangle a short distance away from 
the centre stitching. 

" This determines the width of the button- 
hole, so be careful not to get it too far away," 
said Mrs. Carter to Annalu and Molly. 

Back stitch all around the basting, starting 
in the centre of the long side to sew. Never 
start in the corners. 

Cut on the centre line through all thicknesses 
of material. Put the scissors in the cut and clip 
the four corners towards the stitching. 

Take out basting threads and draw the bias 



146 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

piece through the cut to the wrong side. Form 
a little plait at each corner to make the ends 
lie down smoothly. 

Baste along the lines of buttonhole, and cut 
away the bias piece enough to turn in the raw 
edges and hem. The edges may be left flat and 
catstitched all the way around. 

Annalu made a sample showing the different 
steps she took in making the bound buttonhole, 
and mounted it on a page and put it into her 
portfolio. Molly, slower at sewing, did not 
stop for this. 

The bound buttonhole is used on fine silks 
and materials that will fray easily in making 
the ordinary buttonhole. It is also used on very 
heavy cloth material. 

But what was most pleasing about this dress 
was the little pocket on the belt made from 
material left after the dress was cut. This is 
the way the pocket is made. 

Decide how wide it is to be and cut a piece of 
material three times as long as the width. From 
one of the ends measure down a quarter of the 
length of the piece, on both of the long sides. 
Run a basting thread across from these two 
points. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



147 



Bring the lower corners up to bastings and 
crease on the fold for the bottom of the pocket. 

For the lap crease on the basting and fold 
down over the turned-up piece from the bottom ; 
pin to hold in place. 

From each side at the top of the pocket, 
measure in one quarter of the width of the 
pocket and mark with pins. Measure down on 





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'f///»"W 






PATTERST FOR POCKET 


FIXISHED 
POCKET 



the sides one half the length of the pocket, and 
mark with pins. From these pins measure in 
one quarter the width of the pocket, and mark 
with two more pins. 

Cut, through all thicknesses of material, the 
square formed by the pins at the top of the 
pocket. Round off the corners of the lap. 

To make the pocket, unpin the lap and open 
out the sides. With bias banding bind the three 
raw edges of the square and cut in the pieces 
that go under the lap. 



148 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

To sew on bias banding lay the folded edge 
of the band on the right side of material very 
near the edge and stitch on. Crease and turn 
to the wrong side and stitch on again, being 
sure not to take the stitches all the way through 
to the right side. 

Next finish the oblong cut in the lap and 
under side of pocket. To join the bias ends of 
the band in the oblong, turn under one end and 
let it lap over the other one, then hem together, 
making this joining before stitching the band 
down the second time. 

Next turn down the raw edges of the two 
narrow ends on the front side of the pocket, 
and hem to back of the pocket. 

To finish the outer edge of pocket, turn one 
end of bias banding, lay against the lower left 
hand corner and sew down through both the 
front and back of pocket at the same time. 
Continue the band on up around the flap of 
pocket, and down the right hand side to the 
lower right hand corner, cut off banding, turn- 
ing the end in before taking the last two or three 
stitches. Turn to the other side, crease and 
stitch down. 

Work a buttonhole in each of the corners of 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



149 



the flap and sew buttons on underneath. The 
pocket is held on the belt by buttoning the flap 
over the belt. 

By paying the strictest attention to all the 
little details of the work, cutting accurately, 
basting properly, and finishing neatly, Annalu 
made this pretty little one 
piece dress, with no fasten- 
ings of collar or adjusting of 
waist line. 

Annalu's doll's dress was in 
pink and Molly's was in blue. 
Both took their dolls to the 
dolls' reception in school. 
This was a gala occasion 
when the teacher allowed all 
the little girls to bring their 
dolls to visit. Of course each little girl dressed 
her doll as prettily as she could. 

Always before Annalu's doll had worn the 
red dress because she had not known how to 
make a doll's dress and her mother had been 
too busy. Always before Molly's doll had been 
the shabbiest in the school, for flyaway Molly 
never had time to dress herself with care, to say 
nothing of her poor neglected doll. 




THE FINISHED 

DRESS 



150 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

When Annalu and Molly both showed their 
dolls with bright new dresses there were ex- 
clamations of admiration on all sides. And 
even Molly felt repaid for her hard work. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 151 



CHAPTER XVI 
THE SEWING APRON 

It is the little common things about us in 
every-day wear that can be made beautiful with 
a little care and thought. Take the apron; in 
the beginning its sole object was to protect the 
frock from becoming soiled and spotted. Any 
old dark piece of material could be used for an 
apron, and as soon as the task was done the 
ugly garment was doffed and whisked out of 
sight as not respectable enough to be seen by 
any one. 

But gradually, the apron's other merits 
aside from usefulness were recognized, and right 
away skilful hands busied themselves in improv- 
ing its appearance, until to-day there are as 
many kinds and styles as there are buttercups 
in a meadowland on an early spring morning! 
There is an apron for every occasion, the stiff 
starchy one for the maid, the fudge apron for 
the candy maker, the sewing apron for the little 



152 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

seamstress, the apron for the nurse, and the 
bungalow one for kitchen wear, and many 
others. 

Here again comes the question of good taste 
in selecting the proper apron for the task or 
pleasure on hand. There is a wide range for 
selection, from the strong serviceable ones to the 
dainty beruffled and beribboned ones of the 
afternoon social parties. 

The one Annalu and Molly made was betwixt 
and between. The attraction about this par- 
ticular apron for Annalu especially was that 
she had selected and purchased all her own 
material, and had planned the making of it 
herself, while her mother spared a few moments 
from her work, from time to time, to direct the 
way some particular thing should be done. 
There was to be no bad work in this apron any 
more than there was in the doll's dress. Molly 
used some material that her mother had. 

Annalu bought one and one half yards of 
light green chambray, and a quarter of a yard 
of chambray a shade or two darker; this for 
trimming the apron. Instead of using the mate- 
rial for the band and strings, she bought two 
and one half yards of ribbon, two and a half 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 153 

inches wide, and three quarters of a yard of 
ribbon one and one half inches wide. The color 
was the same as the dark shade of chambray. 
She also bought a skein of mercerized floss to 
match the light shade of material. 

As the apron was all made from straight 
pieces of material there was no need for a pat- 
tern. This is the way Annalu cut and made it, 
and of course Molly did just the same, except 
that hers was a different color. 

From the light green material cut a piece 
twenty-seven inches long and twenty-seven 
inches wide, and another piece nine and a half 
inches long and fifteen inches wide, and a third 
piece ten inches long and eighteen inches wide. 
Also a piece for the little pocket four inches 
wide and three inches deep. 

From the dark green material cut two strips, 
one three inches long and fifteen inches wide, 
and the other three inches long and twenty- 
seven inches wide. With the cutting all care- 
fully done, the making is started in the follow- 
ing way. 

Take the largest piece of material and face 
the bottom with the dark green trimming, by 
laying the right side of the narrow strip against 



154 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

the wrong side of the big piece, and baste to- 
gether ; j oin with a running stitch. Crease the 
seam flat with the thumb nail, turn up on the 
right side and baste. Turn in the raw edge of 
the narrow strip an eighth of an inch, and 
baste again. Sew this edge with a running 
stitch. 

Finish the sides of the piece with a quarter 
inch hem. 

Put the pocket on before the gathers are 
put in, as it will be easier to measure. 

Take the ten-inch piece and put in a half- 
inch hem on one long side. Turn in the raw 
edges on the three other sides, and baste on the 
large piece. To get the pocket an equal dis- 
tance from either side of the large piece, divide 
each piece in half, and crease. Lay the creased 
line of the pocket on the creased line three 
inches up from the top of the facing, baste 
around on the three turned-in sides, and sew 
with a stitching stitch very near the edge of the 
bastings. 

For the small pocket put a quarter of an 
inch hem in the top on one of the short sides. 
Divide the piece in half, and crease — turn the 
corners off to a sharp point at the creased line. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 155 

This gives four raw edges to turn and baste, 
two inches up from the top of large pocket on 
the right hand side. Stitch on to the big piece 
with a strong back stitch. 

Next put in two rows of gathering threads 
at top of large piece, starting one quarter of an 
inch in from each side, but first divide the piece 
in half, and then quarters, and mark with two 
or three vertical stitches of different colored 
threads. These stitches are used for arranging 
the gathers when sewing to the other piece later 
on. This large piece is called the skirt of the 
apron. 

Take the piece fifteen inches wide and face at 
the top with the other piece of darker facing, 
as on the large piece, and hem the two narrow 
edges with a quarter of an inch hem. This is 
called the bib. 

Divide the raw edge of the bib in half, and 
then in quarters ; mark with the colored basting 
stitches. 

Lay the wrong sides of the skirt and bibs 
together, the colored facing coming on the right 
side, of course. Let the edge of the bib come 
one quarter of an inch above the gathered edge 
of the gathers, and pin the middle of the two 



156 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

pieces together; also pin the quarter markings 
together. 

Let the hemmed edges at the sides come to- 
gether and pin. Baste gathers down in a 
straight line to the bib, arranging them evenly 
by pushing along on the thread with end of 
needle. Sew firmly with a stitching stitch; let 
the right side of the stitch come on the bib. 

Crease down with the thumb nail and turn in 
the raw edge one eighth of an inch and baste; 
then hem with stitches very close together. 

Next take the wide ribbon, divide in half and 
pin to the middle of the apron, where the bib 
joins the skirt, and tack at the sides, laying 
three little plaits to make the ribbon set in even 
folds across the front. 

Divide the narrow ribbon in half, and mark 
with a pin. Sew to each end of top of bib. 
Stitch down first, then turn in raw edges and 
hem down to the wrong side, being careful not 
to take too large stitches lest they show 
through to the right side. In the middle of 
ribbon take a slanting plait, letting the large 
part of the plait come at the top of the ribbon. 
This makes it set more smoothly around the 
neck. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 157 

To trim the apron and to make the stitches 
in the facing more firm, feather-stitch the edges 
where the facing joins the other material, and 
also the hem of the large pocket, with mercer- 
ized floss. 

Feather-stitching is used as a decoration in 
a great deal of fancy work and is done in the 
following way : 

Put a knot on the end of the thread, and let 
the running stitch on the facing be a guide for 
the middle of the feather-stitching. Bring the 
needle up to the right of this stitching, carrying 
the floss across to the left side, and push the 
needle down an equal distance from the middle 
stitching. On a line with where the needle came 
up first, holding the floss in a loop with the 
left thumb, come up with the needle a short 
distance below and to the right in the middle 
stitching, catching the floss under the needle, 
and draw the floss through. Carry the floss to 
the opposite side, and the same distance away 
from the middle stitching, and on a line with 
where the stitch holds the loop, take another 
slanting stitch, catching the floss under in a 
loop again. 

This is all there is to feather-stitching, an 



158 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

alternate stitch on the left and right side of 
the middle stitching, working towards the body, 
and being sure to push the needle in an equal 
distance from the centre, and on the line with 
the bottom of the loop, catching the loop under 
the needle each time and bringing the needle 
out. 

To finish the pocket, divide in four parts, and 




FEATHER-STITCHING 

make three buttonholes, a quarter of an inch 
down from the bottom of the hem. 

The bound buttonhole could be used here, as 
there is only one thickness of material. 

Sew the buttons on the apron, and by button- 
ing these one makes a closing, so that when the 
apron is taken off, the contents of the pocket 
will not fall out. 

This apron could be used as a sewing apron, 
or an apron to slip on when knitting, as the 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



159 



pocket across the front would hold the ball of 
yarn, and would be large enough to tuck away 
the article being knitted for safe keeping. 

The donning of this apron became a daily 
habit with Annalu, after it was finished, as she 
knew it was very attractive and added greatly 
to her neatness of appearance. 
This does not mean she was 
a vain little girl. It only 
shows that she had the quali- 
ties of a fine character, as be- 
ing particular about one's 
dress, speech, and actions 
shows an earnest desire to 
achieve the highest in all 
things, big and little. 

And flyaway Molly, who 
could be called flyaway no longer, so neat was 
she becoming, always wore hers when she was 
doing anything in the house to help her mother. 
Mrs. Jones and all of her friends noticed a 
great change in Molly since she began to learn 
to sew and spend so much time with Annalu and 
her mother. The lessons of neatness and order 
which Mrs. Carter taught the little girls in the 
course of their sewing instructions Molly began 




THE FINISHED 
APRON 



160 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

to practise in her every-day life without realiz- 
ing it. 

Her manners were not so boisterous as before, 
becoming more and more like Annalu's, which 
were always gentle, and her appearance also 
changed very much. 

Once she had let her black curls fly all over 
her head, and the boys at school would pull 
them to tease her. Now she brushed her curls 
back smoothly and tied them with a bright 
ribbon, and she looked so very neat that no little 
boy, however rude, would dare to pull her hair. 

As hard-working Mrs. Jones sat before the 
fire evenings, mending the clothes of her young 
children, who were hard on them as are all 
young children, she often looked across the table 
at Molly, clad in her apron and sewing dili- 
gently. 

" I thank my lucky stars for Annalu," Mrs. 
Jones would say to herself on these occasions. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 161 



CHAPTER XVII 
THE STRAIGHT CAMISOLE 

With nothing to do, how slow this world 
would be, thought Annalu, as she started this 
straight camisole. With each step she took in 
her sewing time with her mother, she would 
question what she could do next, and her moth- 
er's response at such times was, " Patience, 
and one thing at a time." 

Mrs. Carter was always somewhat of a mys- 
tery to this little girl, she had lived so long 
before Annalu came into the world, and knew 
so many things her little daughter did not know 
about, until some question would bring forth 
an answer, with much explanation and patient 
instruction. It would surprise Annalu to learn 
that there were so many wonderful things to 
know, and she thought it was the greatest thing 
in the world to have a mother like hers. 

As she admired her mother so much, she also 



162 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

loved her, and naturally, when arrived at the 
point where she could sew nicely, she wanted to 
make something for her that would be very 
pretty. Therefore this camisole was to be a 
labor of love for her mamma, and to accomplish 
it she had to exercise all the dexterity she had 
gained thus far with her needle. This meant 
patience and the utmost care and pains. But 
she determined to do her very best, for nothing 
was too good for her mamma. Molly was glad 
to make a camisole for her own mother, who 
would certainly be surprised as well as pleased. 
The camisole was made of messaline ribbon and 
trimmed with hand-made lace. Of course it 
could have been made of strips of silk or cam- 
bric, and the raw edges hemmed, where they are 
selvaged on the ribbon. 

The material required is two and a half 
yards of ribbon six inches wide, of any light 
shade, and three quarters of a yard of one inch 
ribbon, one and one half yard of baby ribbon, 
sewing silk the same color as ribbon, a spool of 
number thirty crochet cotton in color or white, 
and three quarters of a yard of narrow elastic. 

To start the camisole, lay the two raw edges 
of the ribbon together and cut in half on the 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 168 

fold, and with sewing silk overhand the two 
selvage edges together. This makes a strip 
twelve inches wide. Turn a half inch hem in on 
the ends and sew with silk. Turn the selvage in 
at the top a quarter of an inch, and hem down ; 
turn the bottom in five eighths of an inch and 
hem down. 

Divide the inch ribbon in half for the shoul- 
der straps, and put a quarter inch hem in each 
end. 

Using the quarter inch hem for the top, 
measure from the front hems one quarter the 
distance around the camisole, and place the 
straps in front, and sew them to the top on the 
wrong side, just below where the selvage comes. 
Place the other ends of straps in the back on 
the wrong side, as far away from the front 
straps as the distance is under the arms from 
the middle of the shoulder in front to the middle 
of the shoulder in back. 

With a warm iron press all the hems. 

In the bottom of the camisole run narrow 
elastic a little less than the size of the waist 
measurement, and sew firmly to the ends of the 
hem. 

Across the top and around the shoulder 



164 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

straps dainty fine lace can be whipped on, or 
lace made with the needle worked right into 
the ribbon. This is the way the lace is made 
by hand. 

Fill the needle with the crochet cotton, start 
from the left hand side and work toward the 
right. 

Hold the edge of the hem farthest away from 
the body and bring the thread through to> the 
right side after fastening the end. Insert the 
needle from the right side almost in the same 
hole the thread was drawn through, pass the 
thread attached to the material over the needle 
with the right hand, wrap the double thread at 
the eye of the needle twice around the needle 
toward the left, hold the edge of the hem firmly 
between the first finger and the thumb of the 
left hand, draw the thread through tightly and 
out away from the body. 

One eighth of an inch away from this little 
knot just made on the very edge of the hem, 
pass the needle down through the right side ; 
with the right hand bring the attached thread 
over the needle. Always be sure this thread is 
over the needle in taking the stitch. Wrap the 
double thread at the eye of the needle twice 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 165 

around the needle toward the left, and proceed 
as before. At equal distances apart make five of 
these knots, which will give four small loops. 

The next step is to go back into each one of 
these loops. To do this put the needle down 
through the last loop made, at the same time 
drawing the attached thread over the needle, 
with the thumb and first finger of the left hand. 
Then, holding the loop over the cushion of the 
second finger of the left hand, wrap the double 
thread at the eye of the needle twice around the 
needle toward the left, and draw the needle out, 
away from the body. Make three other knots in 
the same way. 

Turn and go back in these loops just made, 
making two loops and three knots. For the 
last row make two knots and one loop. 

To carry the thread down to the hem to 
begin a new scallop, make four overhand 
stitches, one in each loop, down to the hem, and 
take an overhand stitch in the hole where the 
last knot was made on the edge of the hem. 

Start the new scallop an eighth of an inch 
away from the last knot made. 

Make the edging across the top of the cami- 
sole and finish the shoulder straps last. 



166 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

Run the baby ribbon through the turned-in 
hem at the top, to gather in the extra fullness. 

Make three small buttonholes in the right 
side of the front, and sew the buttons on the left 
side. 

This completes a very simple and dainty gar- 
ment, especially if light colors are used, and 



SP&^S^Y^ 




HAND-MADE LACE 

the lace made with the thread to match the 
ribbon. 

Needless to say Mrs. Carter was decidedly 
pleased with the camisole. She wore it on a 
shopping trip the day after she received it and 
met Mrs. Jones, who told her that she was 
wearing the one Molly had made. Mrs. Jones 
took occasion to thank Annalu's mother for 
her kindness to little Molly and it was with a 
warm glow of satisfaction that Mrs. Carter 
started on her way home. 

As she was walking slowly along the street 
and thinking how fortunate she was to have so 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



167 



willing a little daughter as Annalu, she came 
upon the rich old Mr. Dale, the mill owner who 
had made Annalu's day at the Ladies' Aid fair 
so memorable. Mr. Dale always recognized 
Mrs. Carter as the widow of one of the very 





> 


tUi 


Uii 



THE FINISHED CAMISOLE 



best workmen he had ever had, and on the few 
occasions when they chanced to meet always 
had a courtly greeting for the woman who 
supported herself bravely with her needle. 

" Ah, Mrs. Carter," said Mr. Dale, shaking 
her hand vigorously and speaking in the same 
gruff voice which had so terrified Annalu the 
day of the fair, " I recently made the acquaint- 
ance of your small daughter, I believe." 

Mrs. Carter was too astonished to reply. 



168 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

How could Mr. Dale possibly have learned that 
Annalu was her daughter? 

As though in answer to her unspoken ques- 
tion Mr. Dale went on, " Yes, she sold me some 
little thingumbob at the fair, and the moment I 
looked at her I recognized Jim Carter's eyes. 
So I inquired on my way from the hall and found 
out the little lass' name. And a bright young- 
ster she is, too," he concluded emphatically. 

At this praise of Annalu Mrs. Carter was 
smiling through the tears which mention of her 
husband from his old employer always brought 
to her eyes. 

" Yes, if I do say it myself, Annalu is a great 
comfort to me and I don't quite know what I'd 
do without her," she replied. 

" What do you intend to do with her? " in- 
quired Mr. Dale abruptly. 

" Why, what do you mean ? " asked the sur- 
prised Mrs. Carter. 

" I mean later — when she grows up a bit — 
what are you going to make of her? " 

" Well," said Mrs. Carter slowly, " of course 
Annalu will earn her own living, and as she is 
developing very well in the sewing line, I sup- 
pose she can continue my business." 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 169 

As Annalu's little friends will have guessed, 
her mother was a dressmaker, and a very excel- 
lent one, too. 

Mr. Dale said nothing, but scowled at this 
last remark of Mrs. Carter's and the good 
lady continued, " Of course, I can't afford any 
special training for her, and — " 

" Well, / can," interrupted Mr. Dale. 

" But, Mr. Dale," began the bewildered Mrs. 
Carter. 

" I said * I can,' " cried Mr. Dale, shouting 
with all his might, as he always did when any 
one crossed him in the very least, and making 
so much noise that the poor lady felt certain 
every woman on the quiet street would come 
rushing out to know the cause of the commo- 
tion. 

" I have always had it in mind to do some- 
thing for Jim Carter's child," he began explain- 
ing with dignity, " and when I found out that 
the little girl who knew enough to sew something 
that could get ten dollars out of me was Jim's 
daughter, I was more determined than ever. 
Now since she shows such aptitude for sewing, 
what she ought to do is learn all the ins and outs 
from the best modern teachers and I propose to 



170 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

send her to Brett — when she gets big enough, 
of course." 

Now Brett, a splendid institution in New 
York where all sorts of useful businesses are 
taught to girls, had been a dream of Mrs. 
Carter's for Annalu ever since they had be- 
gun sewing together, but one she had kept 
secret, because, of course, she could not 
afford the expense. As she was hesitating 
for a reply, Mr. Dale, gruff again, said to 
her: 

" I hope, madam, that Jim Carter's wife has 
no foolish notions of pride that will make her 
refuse to accept this from a man who has plenty, 
for a child who certainly deserves educational 
advantages." 

He said this with such pompous dignity that, 
serious as the conversation was, Mrs. Carter 
wanted dreadfully to laugh. 

"The loyal service rendered to me and my 
interests throughout his working life by your 
husband, madam, makes the small favor a high 
privilege which I trust you will grant me. And 
you owe it to that child." 

Hereupon Mr. Dale scowled more ferociously 
than ever at meek little Mrs. Carter, who was 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 171 

entirely too overcome to notice the twinkle in 
his eyes. 

" Indeed, sir, I had no intention of refusing," 
she said. " I appreciate too clearly what it will 
mean to Annalu's future to refuse." 

" You are a sensible woman," declared Mr. 
Dale, and he could give her no higher praise 
than to say she was " sensible." " That child 
may as well be a big dressmaker and make a lot 
of money as the next one — she comes of good 
stock, she has a good mother to bring her up 
and she is talented with her needle. My Mary 
says that bag she made is the finest ever." 

" Of course, I can never find words to thank 
you," began Mrs. Carter. 

" Then don't begin to try," commanded Mr. 
Dale. " Rest assured I know you are grateful. 
I will expect you to inform me whenever the 
child is ready. Even though it will be some few 
years yet, time passes rapidly and I thought 
you might as well plan for it. I bid you good- 
day, madam." 

And without another word, the stately old 
gentleman, bowing low and putting on his hat, 
started up the street. 

Mrs. Carter walked home in a kind of happy 



172 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

daze. She decided to keep her splendid news a 
secret from Annalu for a while, wishing to save 
it for a delightful surprise for some occasion 
when the little girl would most enj oy it. 

So when Annalu opened the door to let her 
in she said not a word about meeting Mr. Dale. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 173 



CHAPTER XVIII 
COLLAR AND CUFF SET 

While making a collar and cuff set, which 
was the next thing she tried after the camisole, 
Annalu, with her mother, took a journey in 
imagination way back in the past, and discov- 
ered a few interesting things about collars. At 
first people's dress did not have so many pieces. 
There were many reasons for this. The pur- 
pose of clothing was just to< keep the body 
warm, and skins of animals were used. As there 
were no needles or thread to sew with, or shears 
to cut with, the body was wrapped in one skin. 
Then needles were made from bones of animals 
or fish, and sinews and reeds were used to sew 
the pieces together, and gradually as man be- 
came more enlightened he thought of improving 
his bodily comfort until piece after piece of 
clothing was added to his wardrobe, and to-day 
to make one's toilet means donning a number of 
garments. 



174 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

So, as the knives and scissors were made, and 
needles and cotton thought of, the garments 
were fashioned to fit the human form; sleeves 
and legs, skirts and bodices, were cut and 
moulded, and collars and cuffs added. Soon man 
became very fanciful and wanted changes, so 
" style " was introduced, and this is where the 
interesting part of the history of costume comes. 

In the Middle Ages people, as to-day, were 
known by their dress, and only privileged classes 
were allowed to wear certain kinds of dress. 
For instance, the collar which finishes the neck 
of a coat, a dress, a cloak, or a shirt, in times 
past has been a very prominent part of the 
raiment. It was originally intended merely to 
bind the neck of the garment so as to make it 
stronger, but in the time of Queen Elizabeth it 
had become such a decoration that from a little 
linen collar it grew into many yards of material, 
plaited row upon row, until the head of the 
wearer seemed to be a little dot in this wide and 
flapping array. This collar was called the ruff, 
and was a very wonderful affair, standing out 
straight from the neck, held in position at first 
with wires, and later by being starched very 
stiff. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 175 

In another period the men wore the broad 
collar and cuffs of beautiful laces. The Pil- 
grims were known by their broad collars and 
cuffs of stiff linen. In times past the slaves 
wore a collar of iron about their necks to show 
they belonged to servitude. The collar was also 
used as a mark of distinction given by the king 
to a favored subject. These collars were very 
beautiful, embroidered in gold and silver, with 
the royal coat-of-arms woven in. Kings granted 
their loyal followers the privilege of wearing 
collars of certain designs showing they had done 
some brave deed or held some important office. 

All these and many other interesting things 
are told in histories of people who have lived in 
the past. Times change and fashions with them, 
and to-day the collar and cuffs, which at differ- 
ent periods were made of various shapes and 
materials, are still an attraction and add to the 
beauty and neatness of one's attire. 

A dainty way of laying the tucks to make the 
airy ruffles around the bottom made Annalu's 
set very pleasing. 

To make the collar and cuff set take two 
yards of a very fine lawn edging or organdie, 
about four inches wide. 



176 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

Measure from the middle of the back of the 
neck as far down as the collar is to extend, in 
the front. Mark this distance on the tape 
measure with a pin for the centre of the back 
of the collar. From this pin place another pin 
the same distance away as the first measure- 
ment; this gives the entire length of the collar. 

The next step is to mitre the corner. With 
the scalloped edge toward the body and right 
side up, fold the end of the edging back the 
width of the edging, so that the two right sides 
face ; that is, if the edging is four inches wide, 
fold back the end four inches. Next, bring the 
upper corner of the folded edge down to the scal- 
loped edge the width of the edging away from 
the lower corner of the fold ; that is, if the edg- 
ing is four inches wide, let the upper corner 
fold four inches away from the lower corner. 

Pin the two corners of this last fold so the 
material will not slip. Crease and unpin, turn 
the corner back and pin again, and baste on 
creased line. This diagonal line gives a true 
bias. Next, with very fine thread back stitch 
with tiny stitches. Then take shears and, hold- 
ing the scalloped edge in the left hand, cut away 
the material on the right hand side of the stitch- 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 177 

ing, leaving a quarter of an inch of the material. 
Open out the seam with the nail, and overcast 
each raw edge. At the corner sew down the 
ends with three or four fine stitches. 

The next step is to lay the tucks, and on the 
width and number of these tucks will depend 
the amount of material needed, and the fullness 
of the collar. Fine tucks, not too near together, 
set better. 

Starting an inch from the seam in the mitred 
corner, put in an eighth of an inch tuck, and 
stitch in with a fine even running stitch half 
way down the width of the edging. Put in 
enough of these tucks to make the length of the 
collar marked on the tape measure, being sure 
when the other edge is reached not to have them 
come down any nearer to the end than on the 
other side. Mitre this corner in the same way 
as the first one. With the thumb nail turn all 
the tucks on either side, toward the middle of 
the back. 

The next step is to finish the raw edge at the 
neck with a bias strip about one inch wide. This 
can be cut or one can use the binding that is all 
prepared. The binding is put on by folding 
one edge a little below the other and creasing. 



178 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

With the scalloped edge of the collar on the 
right side toward the body, lay the smaller divi- 
sion of the bias strip one quarter of an inch up 
on the raw edge of the collar, and baste and 
hem down to the 'Collar. Take out bastings and 
turn to the wrong side and baste the bias edge 
to the under side and hem. At both corners of 



COLLAR AND CUFF SET 



the bias strip turn the ends in and overcast. 

The cuffs are made in just the same way as 
the collar. Measure the size wanted for the cuff , 
mark on tape measure with pins. Mitre the 
corners and lay in the tucks half the width of 
the edging used, and finish the raw edges with 
a bias strip. If the bias strip is cut, it should 
be made from fine lawn. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 179 

Another pretty way of making this set isr to 
take fine lawn and hemstitch the edges or to use 
linen and draw small scallops around and but- 
tonhole the edge. In either case the tucks would 
have to be put in first, so as to get the proper 
length of the collar. If the scalloping is used 
the edge is continued right around without 
mitring the corners, but when hemstitching is 
used the corners will have to be mitred after the 
hemstitching is done. 



180 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 



CHAPTER XIX 
PATCHING AND DARNING 

Annalu would never be a finished little 
needlewoman if she did not know something 
about patching and darning, and how to repair 
partly worn garments. This kind of work as 
a rule is less interesting than other kinds of 
needlework, but it is a fact that all the stitches 
used in darning are valuable in giving variety 
to the higher art of embroidery. But even in 
the homely occupation of rescuing a worn gar- 
ment from the ragbag, the repairing can be so 
nicely and evenly done as to make it a thing 
of beauty. When an accident happens to a 
perfectly new garment what satisfaction there 
is in the thought of knowing the proper way 
to repair the damage, so that it will hardly 
show! 

Patching cannot be done in a hit or miss 
fashion, but must be done by certain rules. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 181 

It is advisable to know when to patch and 
when a darn will answer the purpose just as 
well. Here are some facts to remember about 
patches. 

Patches are used to cover holes, and thin 
places around holes, and are also used when 
the hole is too large to darn. As a rule, when 
a place is to be patched the worn part has to 
be cut away, so the patch should be of old mate- 
rial, and of the same kind of material as the 
garment to be patched. 

Patches look better when they are either 
square or oblong. When the patch is in, it 
should match the thread of the material patched, 
warp to warp, woof to woof. 

The square patch is used usually in places 
where it is covered up, and will wear well in 
washing. 

To prepare a patch, crease the warp and 
the woof of the material around the hole, as 
near the middle of the hole as possible. Meas- 
ure a piece of material as large as will be needed 
to cover the worn place or hole, allow one quar- 
ter of an inch for hemming and turning, cut 
the patch square and crease on the warp and 
woof in the centre of the patch. If there is a 



182 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

right and wrong side to the material, turn down 
on the right side an eighth of an inch on all 
four raw edges of the patch, and lay the right 
side of the patch against the wrong side of the 



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THE SQUARE PATCH 



MATCHING STRIPES 
IN PATCHING 



place to be patched, making the creased lines of 
the patch come even with the creased lines of 
the place to be patched. 

Baste all around the four sides of the patch. 
Cut away the worn place, within one quarter 
of an inch of the turned-in edges of the patch, 
turn the cut edges in on all sides and baste. 
Starting in the middle of one side, hem around 
the corner and to the half of the next side. 
Then do the opposite side and corner and finish 
up the other two sides in the same way. Turn 
to the wrong side and hem down the turned-in 
edges of the patch with a very fine stitch. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 183 

In ginghams, silks, wools, or colored mate- 
rials, the overhand patch is used. 

Prepare the patch the same as in a square 
patch, by getting the warp and woof threads 
to match. 

Take material large enough, so if the gar- 
ment to be patched has a stripe or a pattern the 
patch can be shifted on the hole till the pattern 
or stripe matches in each, then cut patch, allow- 
ing three eighths of an inch on all sides for 
hemming. 

Cut the part to be patched on a diagonal to 
the sewing line and turn the raw edges, which 
are wedge shaped, back to the wrong side and 
crease on all sides on the thread of the material. 
Place the patch in the opening, matching the 
threads again, and turn all sides of the patch 
right on the line with the turned edge of the 
hole to be patched. Hold together and overhand 
these two folded edges, doing one side first and 
the opposite side next. In turning the cor- 
ners, catch only one thickness of the fold and 
take up as little material in sewing as possible. 

Cut wedge-shaped pieces from the corners 
and trim away all worn places, leaving three 
eighths of an inch on all sides to keep from pull- 



184 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

ing out. Overcast all raw edges of the patch, 
and the edges of the place patched. 

Another way of sewing this patch is to turn 
the seams the same as described above, but run 
the seams together on the wrong side. Instead 




THE FLANNEL, PATCH 



of overhanding them, this leaves no stitches to 
show on the right side of the garment. 

In flannel or cloth that will not fray the right 
side of the patch is laid against the wrong side 
of the material, and the worn places cut away 
in the square, the raw edges catstitched down, 
without turning in. On the wrong side the raw 
edges are catstitched also. This makes a flat 
smooth patch. 

The secret of artistic patching is not to 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 185 

pucker the work at the corners. To make 
corners look well it is necessary to follow the 
straight thread of the article being patched, 
also the piece used for a patch, and at the cor- 
ners to take not a thread more than is necessary 
to make a strong seam. Of course a hot iron 
passed over the patched place improves the 
appearance very much. 

Darning is not so tiresome and uninteresting 
as one would suppose or as the little girl 




CATSTITCHI3STG 
A. Right Side. b. Wrong Side. 

thought, who made the remark that she wished 
at Christmas time she would be given enough 
stockings for every day in the year so that 
she would not have to darn. When one thinks 
that in all the beautiful old tapestries, and the 
many patterns of laces that have been made, 
just the plain darning stitches are frequently 



186 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

used, it would seem that learning to take these 
stitches in a skilful way is laying a firm founda- 
tion for the higher art in needlework. 

Darning takes much time and should not be 
hurried. , It is agreeable work to employ one's 
time when there is a long afternoon to be en- 
joyed with a chatty friend, or when one wants 
to become quiet and in a serene frame of mind, 
the regular weaving in and out of the woof and 
warp threads has a particularly soothing effect 
on the worker. 

Darning is mending a torn place, or strength- 
ening a worn place by putting in new threads 
as near like the weave as possible. This is done 
by matching the color and texture of the mate- 
rial. Sometimes, in cashmere or woolens, a 
piece of the new material is raveled out, and 
this raveling used for darning. 

By being careful to choose the proper needle 
and the right thread a garment can be nicely 
repaired, so that the tear will hardly show. 

In a straight tear the extent of the damage is 
outlined with a basting thread. Select a needle 
with a large eye so that it will carry the mending 
thread easily, hold the tear over the finger and 
begin at the top with a fine running stitch. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 187 

Make one row after another row of running 
stitches, leaving a little loop at each turning to 
allow for shrinkage and pulling, in wear. Draw 
the torn edges together, but do not let them 
overlap. 

If the tear is a three-cornered one, or, as 
it is sometimes called, a hedge tear, the edges 




HOW TO WEAVE NEW THREADS IN TEARS AND 
DARNS 



are carefully drawn together with basting 
threads. Afterwards, when the darn is finished, 
these are taken out. If darning with silk, the 
strand is split into thirds, and one of these 
pieces is used, starting from the corner. The 
running stitch is worked in rows toward one 
side of the tear, until the break is fully covered, 
when the thread is fastened. Then, starting 
from the corner again, join the tear on the 



188 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

other side. Working from the centre this way 
prevents pulling the material out of shape in 
joining the jagged edges. The darn is carried 
a little distance beyond the tear to strengthen 
the weak threads of the weaving. 

A rent is sometimes made across the woof 
and warp threads, in a diagonal line. This is 
called a diagonal tear. This tear is outlined 
and the edges are drawn together with a basting 
thread, then the tear is repaired by parallel 
rows of running stitches, carrying the thread 
on the second row a stitch higher, and starting 
the following row a stitch higher than the last. 
At the bottom the stitches are kept on a line till 
the width of the darn is reached, then after that 
a stitch less is made at the bottom in each row. 
This keeps the stitches parallel in an even darn 
and still covers the diagonal tear. In this tear 
both the woof and warp threads must be inserted. 

After the tear has been covered one way with 
running stitches, make rows of parallel stitches 
crossing the first rows, being careful to pass 
the thread over one stitch and under the next, 
and in turning, to make an extra stitch in each 
row on one side, and make one less at the end 
of the other side; 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 



189 



fflf/fifo 



The holes in stockings or any knitted goods 
are repaired by cutting all the ragged edges 
away from the hole, and making the darn either 
in a diamond shape or round. Carry the darn 
far enough back from the hole to strengthen the 

broken stitches, and in 
turning each time 
always leave a little 
loop, and when the hole 
is reached, be sure and 
catch in the edge. 
This holds the threads 
in place and makes the 
darn stronger. The 
up and down threads 
or warp threads are 
put in first, and then the woof threads are in- 
serted, and woven close enough together to make 
the darn as closely woven as the rest of the 
stocking. 

Make no knots in the darning cotton, and 
make all darns on the right side in the foot of 
the stocking, and on the wrong side in the legs. 
The legs of a lisle or silk stocking may be 
mended, where a stitch has run down the leg, 
by using a crochet hook. Look at the raveled 




DARNING A DIAGONAL TEAR 



190 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

part and find the stitch that is running, insert 
the hook in this stitch, take the next thread 
above this stitch, and draw it through the stitch 
that is on the needle. Then take the next 
thread above and draw it through the loop 
just made. Continue up the stocking as far as 
the stitch has run, fasten the loop at the top 
with needle, and silk to match the stocking. 
Be very careful to pick up each thread along 
the length of the raveled part. If there is more 
than one stitch dropped, the damaged part will 
be wider, but work each stitch in a straight line 
to top of stocking, and fasten each time with 
needle and silk. 

If care is taken the finest stocking can be 
mended and the place will hardly show. 

Two more pages were added to Annalu's and 
Molly's portfolios. 

On the first half of one page a sample of the 
square hemmed patch was mounted. This patch 
was made of muslin, and the edges notched all 
around for neatness. One side of the wedge 
piece was not cut off, but left to show the method 
of cutting away the worn part before turning 
it in. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 191 



CHAPTER XX 
ANNALU'S AMBITION 

One day in the early spring Mrs. Carter, who 
had received an order for a dance frock from 
a rich customer, decided to go into the city to 
purchase materials, and at the same time to 
" stock up " on all the supplies of which she 
was in need. 

Of course Annalu was to go too, and as rides 
on the trains were a rare event in her quiet vil- 
lage life, she anticipated the trip to the city 
with much joy. When the day came she was 
fairly bubbling with excitement. 

Mrs. Carter and Annalu went direct to one 
of the great department stores, where they spent 
over three hours, all told. Annalu had never 
seen anything larger than the village " general 
store " and the huge ten-story building, with 
its armies of people constantly coming and 
going, seemed like a fairyland to her. 

Like most capable dressmakers, Mrs, Carter 



192 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

knew exactly what material she wanted and 
just where to find it, and as the big store was 
hardly a novelty to her she did not have 
Annalu's disposition to linger, exclaim and ad- 
mire. The little girl, accustomed as she was to 
get her sewing materials from pieces of old 
garments left in the garret, was fairly raptur- 
ous at the sight of the spacious counters laden 
with dainty fabrics, crisp lawns and muslins, 
fragile delicate silks and heavy brocaded ones, 
the former in soft pastel shades, the latter in 
deep, rich tones. Annalu hadn't known there 
were so many different shades in existence, and 
she was too awed and delighted to say a word. 
She simply stood and looked, with her eyes very 
wide open. 

As they passed the neckware counter Annalu's 
quick eyes caught sight of a sheer batiste collar, 
very like the one she had made, and she insisted 
on stopping to examine it. Later on, in the 
underwear section, there was a table piled high 
with camisoles of lustrous pink silk and feathery 
lace, and it must be confessed Annalu thought a 
little wistfully of the neat but plainer camisole 
she had made for her mother with such pains- 
taking care. 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 193 

In fact, the longer she stayed in the store 
and the more she saw, the less she liked all the 
little garments she had made herself at home, 
and with which she had been more than satisfied 
at the time. Even the famous bag which she 
had sold to Mr. Dale at the fair paled into 
insignificance when she saw the gorgeous crea- 
tions of multi-colored cretonnes with gaudy pat- 
terns, which the smart black-frocked salesgirl 
told her were for knitting. Annalu's ambition 
was soaring by leaps and bounds, and her 
mother hardly knew whether to be disturbed or 
pleased over it. 

The climax came when they visited what the 
store people called " the French room," a 
handsomely furnished apartment, the walls of 
which were covered with pale gray silk to match 
in color the little chairs and tables placed at 
intervals for the convenience of the patrons. 
Mrs. Carter explained that the most beautiful 
and costly dresses were kept here and she wanted 
to get " ideas " for the dress she was to make, 
but Annalu was so absorbed in noting every 
detail of the perfectly appointed little room 
that she could spare no attention whatever to 
the garments at first. 



194 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

Mrs. Carter asked to see evening dresses and 
the saleswoman brought out what she called a 
" Jenny model." Little Annalu had no idea 
what a Jenny model signified in the fashion 
world, but when she had examined the dress she 
was very sure in her own mind that she heartily 
approved of Jenny. 

The dress was made of yards and yards of 
shiny taffeta, with graceful folds of this lovely 
fabric arranged in chic puffs at the back, and 
alluring little bands of tulle and velvet with 
embroidered rosebuds about the sleeves and 
waist. It was easily the most beautiful thing 
Annalu had ever seen and she wondered at the 
careless way the saleswoman tossed it over the 
back of the chair when she went to get another 
dress for Mrs. Carter's inspection. 

It happened that Annalu and her mother were 
the only people in the French room when the 
saleswoman left. It was still rather early in 
the morning, which accounted for the lack of 
other customers, and the other saleswomen 
seemed to be occupied elsewhere also. It was 
so quiet that the tick-tock of the tiny gold clock 
on the wall was plainly audible. 

Mrs. Carter turned to make some remark to 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 195 

her little daughter but stopped short, before 
she formed a single word, when she saw Annalu. 
The little girl was sitting quietly enough with 
her hands folded in her lap, but her face looked 
very solemn and there was a far-away look 
in her eyes. So absorbed was she in her 
thoughts that she failed to notice her mother's 
intent gaze, until Mrs, Carter said, gently, 
"Annalu!" 

" Yes, mother," Annalu answered, a bit 
startled. 

" A penny for your thoughts, dear," Mrs. 
Carter said, with a smile. 

There was no sign of a smile, however, on 
Annalu's face as she said, very slowly and very 
distinctly : 

" Mother, I was thinking how much I should 
like to have a big dressmaking shop, a beautiful 
gray one, just like this room, when I grow up, 
and make all sorts of lovely dresses just like this. 
I would like to make the designs myself, too, and 
choose the fabrics and show other girls how to 
do the fine sewing, just as you showed me. I 
would like — " 

But here Annalu stopped. Her mother's sur- 
prised look confused her and she didn't realize 



196 A LITTLE SEWING BOOK 

how strange such a long, dignified speech 
sounded from such a small girl. 

When Mrs. Carter had recovered from her 
astonishment she was glad to know that Annalu 
had been thinking about her future, young as 
she was, and that she was ambitious enough to 
want to go to the top of the profession for 
which she was so clearly talented. 

Mrs. Carter, though only a country dress- 
maker herself, had the sewing skill which would 
have enabled her to conduct a big establishment 
if only she had had the proper training years 
before, and she knew it. Mr. Dale's generous 
offer to send Annalu to Brett would make this 
training possible for her. Mrs. Carter had not 
intended to say anything about this to Annalu 
for a long time, perhaps for two or three years, 
but when she saw the effect of the French room 
on her daughter's active little mind, she swiftly 
decided that this was the time to tell Annalu the 
great secret. 

And so, there in the elegant, quiet salon, high 
up on the sixth floor of the great department 
store, sitting opposite that enchanting pink 
frock which had inspired Annalu, the Widow 
Carter, as Mr. Dale would call her, told her 



FOR A LITTLE GIRL 197 

little girl all about her talk with the mill owner, 
what he said about Annalu at the fair, how 
much he admired industrious young people who 
wanted to learn and sensible parents who knew 
enough to teach them, and of his offer to provide 
the money for Annalu's course at the great in- 
stitute in New York, where she could learn dress- 
making and designing and the allied branches 
from the very best teachers and fit herself for 
the work that, even thus early, attracted her. 

When Mrs. Carter had finished Annalu sat 
very still for several minutes, trying to realize 
what this chance would mean to her mother and 
to herself. She wanted to rush home and tell 
Molly and Miss Jasper. She wanted to see Mr. 
Dale and thank him right away. But she re- 
membered it was through her mother's instruc- 
tions she had come in contact with Mr. Dale. 
So instead she said: 

" Mother, I'm very glad you started our sew- 
ing lessons." 

" And I," responded Mrs. Carter, " am thank- 
ful and pleased I had such an earnest little 
daughter to teach." 

THE END. 



INDEX 



Applique 

Band, How to Finish . 

Belt, How to Make 

Bias 

Garment .... 

True 

Bias Band 

Collar and Cuffs 

Finishing armhole and neck 
Bias Strips 

Joining 

Marking and folding 
Box Plaits 
Buttonhole (Plain) 

Barring 

Buttonhole bound 

Pearling 

Preparing . 
Camisole, How to Make 
Card Table Cover . 
Corners, How to Mitre 
Clothes-Pin Bag 

Cutting 

Decorating 

Making 
Collar and Cuff Set 

199 



54 
144 



. 87 
86, 176 

177 
131 



87 

86 

141 

68 
145 



67 
161 
108 
108, 176 



91 

92 

93 

173 



200 INDEX 



PAGE 



Darning 

Diagonal Tear 188 

Silk and Lisle Stockings 189 

Straight Tear 186 

Three Cornered or Hedge Tear .... 187 

Doll's Chemise 124 

Doll's Panties . . . . . . .116 

Doll's Petticoat 

Cutting 58 

Making 59 

Envelope Cover for Holder 50 

Fasteners 

Blind eye 75 

Eyelets 76 

Hook and Eye ....... 76 

Sewing on Button ...... 74 

Gathering . . . . . . . . 53 

Hangers 

Flat Loop 78 

Folded Loop 78 

Hemming 

French 47 

Plain 45 

Rolled 121 

Hemmed Fell 59 

Hemstitching 130 

Insertion, Sewing on 144 

Kimono Dress 

Cutting 141 

Making . . 142 

Knot, How to Make ...... 13 

Lace 

Hand Made 164 

Whipping on ... . . . . 122, 123 



INDEX 201 

m PAGE 

Measurements . . .58, 117, 126, 138, 146, 175 

Needle, How to Thread ..... 9 

Needle Book 36 

Patching 

Flannel 184 

Overhand 183 

Square 181 

Patterns . . . . 92, 117, 126, 138, 146 

Plackets 

Continuous 61 

Dress . . . . . . . .143 

Flat . . .120 

Plain Apron 52 

Pockets 

Apron • . . .158 

Fancy 146 

Position in Sewing 
Arms ........ 7 

Body 6 

Eyes 7 

Feet 6 

Hands . 7 

Head 6 

Ruffling 132 

Running Tape 93 

Scissors 

Kinds . .12 

Use . . .13 

Seaming 

French 59 

Plain 59 

Selvage ......... 84 

Sewing Apron 

Cutting 152 

Making . .153 



202 INDEX 

PAGE 

Stitches 

Back 25 

Blanket 28 

Buttonhole or Pearl 69 

Catch i 185 

Chain Ill 

Combination . . . . . . .27 

Even Basting . . . . . . . 19 

Feather 157 

Outline .110 

Overcasting 22 

Overhand .38 

Running . . . . . . . .21 

Stitching 23 

Uneven Basting . . . . , . .20 

Textiles . . 81 

Thimble, Use of . 10 

Tools, Necessary 3 

Tucking 
Measuring ........ 60 

Sewing 61, 177 

Warp and Woof ....... 83 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

00D173<J3&,74 9 



